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Unread 10-08-2009, 04:20 PM
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modest Anchor Replacement Initiative effort here?

After becoming tired of praying that terrible anchors will live to lower just one more climber (me), I have been toying with the idea of trying to coordinate some sort of very modest Anchor Replacement initiative here. I have bolted a couple of sport routes back in the states, so I have a very limited ability to handle bolting, but without dealing with bolts, here's what I was thinking.

Starting small:
- Just coordinating a pool of people willing to contribute to purchasing high quality chain and screw links to replace frightening steel cable death triangles.

- Starting with a modest one year goal of; one or two local sport crags (surisan, and Namhansanseong) and one larger area (like Yongseo Pokpo or Ganhyeon).

- If all goes well, try to continue the effort as people's interets/fundraising/time allows.

It would also be a good way to include a little indoctrination about what safe anchors are, and the well-written rule about NEVER top roping on fixed gear on anchors to the Korean climbing community too.

a great safe anchor can be built on good bolts with;
* 2 foot-long pieces of ss chain (5-7,000 won maybe)
* 2 petzl mallion rapides (20,000 won)
* 2 s.steel carabiners, or 2 more Maillion rapides. (20-40,000 won)

(On a lot of the routes, the one steel caribiner already on the anchor could be used for 1 of the 2 needed.)

I'd be willing to channel a little cash from my tight budget, search for suppliers of good quality gear, and spend a lot of time hanging from bolts with tools switching out a lot of mank for a little piece of mind for all.

Any interest?
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Unread 10-08-2009, 04:26 PM
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two of those on Petzl mallion rapides would be good too. ( if bolts are close enough together).
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Unread 10-08-2009, 04:56 PM
gt29905 gt29905 is offline
Spandexed Sportclimber
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nowon, Seoul
Posts: 212
Awesome!!! Yes, I'll contribute money and time and I'd like to learn what you know about bolting.

Although, I think there should be a dialogue with the Korean climbing clubs who maintain these crags before changing any of the hardware.
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Unread 10-08-2009, 05:10 PM
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Like I said, I don't want to get into bolting, just fixing the cable non-redundant anchors On the bolts.

Yes dialogue is a must, I didn't even think to metion it. That is THE unwritten rule.

I some how doubt they will say, "No, please don't fix up our crags!"
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Unread 10-08-2009, 09:52 PM
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shanja shanja is offline
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
We bought a few anchor sets a whiles ago and after putting in some bolts and an anchor the rest were left in the competent and thankful hands of the Ak-dong Climbing Club (round Yongseo Pokpo area). This is where I got them:
and the anchors were 2 bolt fixe chined anchors whose bolts are to be placed VERTICALLY rather than horizontally. The chain joining them is thus able (when correctly spaced) to share the load and also prevent shock-loading if one bolt did pop (the lower bolt hanger has a rap ring attached, but there is still plenty of room to pop in a draw on each bolt hanger to use instead (as you should) when top roping.
Newbies and some oldies might wonder :
Because everyone using that ring/ hook quickly wears it out and cuts it in half!! It really does happen. TR-ing wears out rings way way more than rappelling...and as you want the anchors to be bomber for everyone, it saves a lot of wear and tear on the anchor if you use your own (2) draws.
Whatever anchor we go with, permission and a sense of treading carefully about the stupidity/ unacceptability of death triangles will be important. We don't want to offend/ come across as smart-arse know it alls teaching the locals what is right and wrong. That would be counter-productive. YET Dom (et. al.) is 100% correct in that we should take an active role in helping rid the ROK of poor anchors. Alec(Cali4nia) also was very much into this idea.
We had a few dodgy anchors this week in Daedunsan, so you can count me in as well.
quem deus perdere vult, primus dementat
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Unread 10-08-2009, 10:10 PM
bhylenski bhylenski is offline
Currently a "Gyeongsonian"
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Gyeongsan (Daegu)
Posts: 150
I'm in

Hey Jake,

I've done a bit of anchor replacement over the years in the Rockie mountains in the states and put up a bunch of routes on Liao Liang island in Thailand (free accomodation, to help her out and bolt a bunch of routes. My experience is primarily with anchors and glue-ins which I prefer, for costs and for strength, as well as wear and tear....They simply last longer when done right. But, they are tricky to do and must be done right.

Where as expansion bolts have a bit of "wiggle" room, no pun intended. I do not have the equipment, but do have the knowledge. Let me know what you have planned and count me in for time and finances. I'd rather spend the cash on crags I'll be using, say Southern South Korea, but if necessary I don't mind helping with Northern dest. crags, like Seorak and Bukhansan.

Give me a call 010-2232 6511 or email [email protected], when you get something set up. I'm in.

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