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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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  #1  
Unread 04-30-2008, 02:18 PM
shanja's Avatar
shanja shanja is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
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Bolt and Anchor tech-specs

So after talking with "Steve" at climbing anchors australia; good man; I thought I'd post his link via Fixe about what, when, how, and so on vis-a-vis bolt and anchor placing specs. It's pretty much an engineers wet dream kinda thing, but gives you a good idea of how technical it has all become (and hopefully how much safer) since the days of dodgy hardware shop bolts being banged in on the crux by Joe Blow during his 1st ever bolting effort.

One thing internet discussion threads highlighted to me as being crucially important in placing bolts was the tightening force (torque) on different bolts. Too much (easier to do than you might think) and the best bolts snap like chalk sticks, too little and they can pull out when your rope jiggles!

So what I've learnt is that our 10mm Fixe Wedge bolts (stainless Steel) are designed especially for climbing, and required a torque tightening of 35Nm. The anchors we have (also Fixe two bolt chain jobs) should be placed in a vertical orientation (one high, one low) and are way stronger and safer than tradition two bolt horizontally placed bolt anchors (because they have almost zero shock-loading and good minimum angle force distribution).

We will be looking for volunteers to help rebolt at Yongseo sometime soon.

http://www.fixeclimbing.com/pdf/Libro%20tecnica2.pdf
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  #2  
Unread 04-20-2009, 11:22 AM
RocDoc RocDoc is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Abroad
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Where's that? Yongseo...

Quote:
Originally Posted by shanja
So after talking with "Steve" at climbing anchors australia; good man; I thought I'd post his link via Fixe about what, when, how, and so on vis-a-vis bolt and anchor placing specs. It's pretty much an engineers wet dream kinda thing, but gives you a good idea of how technical it has all become (and hopefully how much safer) since the days of dodgy hardware shop bolts being banged in on the crux by Joe Blow during his 1st ever bolting effort.

One thing internet discussion threads highlighted to me as being crucially important in placing bolts was the tightening force (torque) on different bolts. Too much (easier to do than you might think) and the best bolts snap like chalk sticks, too little and they can pull out when your rope jiggles!

So what I've learnt is that our 10mm Fixe Wedge bolts (stainless Steel) are designed especially for climbing, and required a torque tightening of 35Nm. The anchors we have (also Fixe two bolt chain jobs) should be placed in a vertical orientation (one high, one low) and are way stronger and safer than tradition two bolt horizontally placed bolt anchors (because they have almost zero shock-loading and good minimum angle force distribution).

We will be looking for volunteers to help rebolt at Yongseo sometime soon.

http://www.fixeclimbing.com/pdf/Libro%20tecnica2.pdf

Where abouts is Yongseo? Do you have an internet map site that would show how I could get there from Songtan (Near Osan Air Base).
Willing to help..
RocDoc
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  #3  
Unread 04-20-2009, 03:58 PM
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mhraue mhraue is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Gwangju
Posts: 18
I'd be happy to come out to Yongseo to help out. I'm leaving at the end of May, but I love the place. Just let me know.
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