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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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Unread 10-03-2010, 04:43 PM
TLayne TLayne is offline
Jiri Jammer
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Near Konkuk univ.
Posts: 90
And thats why I dont multi-pitches. It's cool you all made it though.

I dont know if you guys know Wessly, he left a year or so ago, but *******. He brought me to climb Insubong on like my second time climbing. It was maybe December and the east face was covered in ice. We wondered to the far left most route and Wes went up.

The whole way to the mountain I was so pumped. I watched as Wes studied the route guide on the subway and couldnt believe i was going to climb insubong. Before starting to climb I hiked for 4 years in Korea. I watched many times through binoculars at the climbers on dobongsan and insubong. Now I was going to be the one scaling the large granite faces and ledges.

So Wes makes it easily up the first pitch and hollers down for me to start climbing. Alright here I go I thought. It was maybe a 5.9 up a crack. About halfway my fingers are turning numb but I didnt care. I cleaned the gear out of the cracks like I was shown and made it to the top. WOW I made it. It was a weird feeling not having anyone below. Right away wes starts doing **** with my harness, clipping me in, does a this quick simple knot with the rope and shows me how I can adjust it with my caribiner. Then he starts stacking the rope over my sling. At this time I start thinking about that rusty fricking bolt that was staring at me. Time faded when Wes suddenly breaks my train of thought and points up about 10 meters to another anchor that was on a big ledge near a tree.

Thats about the time I wanted to get the **** down. My fear was not having anyone below that I could just holler to lower me. I felt really claustrophobic. Time started to fade again I started to think about a time, years before when I was watching a group of climbers rappelling off the back side of the mountain and how the rope got stuck. It may have only been my second time climbing but I could still figure out in my head just some of the things that could go wrong. I wanted down now!

So I slowly look over to Wes who has no idea whats running through my head and say "let me down please". I'm just trying to be so polite because I am totally at his mercy. So Wes being the guy that he is asks if he can punch me. I think about for a second and decide no. What the hell was that suppose to do to help I thought. Then he says ok I will lower you down but first listen to me. He says " think about your life". "Think about all the things that are going to happen in the future" Then what seamed like forever he finally says "everythings ok" I pause for a moment hoping magicly what he said would somehow make everything go away but it didnt.

Even though you arent really "stuck" when climbing you kinda are. Youre stuck on a 2 foot leash when you're belaying. And god forbid youre climbing a route that has no option of retreat or your rope gets stuck halfway coming down! I said "sorry". "I need to get down". So Wes lowers me down and 5 minutes later he's on the ground and we're heading back down the mountain. Wes was REALLY quiet. The silence was killing me so I asked if he was pissed. He then starts talking about mountaineers and how insubong was significant to a mountaineer climbing in Korea. Most of it just blew over my head. I miss Wes. To this day I regret not pushing on. He really wanted to climb insubong. I dont think he ever made it while he was here. Feels bad man

Anyway. Why did I post this you ask? Because had I been in that group I'd have camped on top of the mountain till daylight and found some way down on foot. Second if I ever do get the balls to do a multi-pitch, I'm packing a spare 300 meter 8mm rope just in case the damn rope gets stuck. I will have that rope set up so the middle is right in plain view and I can clip it in and throw it down in the matter of seconds. There will be no threading it through the rap ring. I will bring a couple extra beaners to leave behind. No untangling. Everything nice and neat. I dont know what I would do if I were stuck. For that reason I'll probably never do it

If anyone has this problem and knows some kinda trick to get over it let me know please
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Unread 10-04-2010, 12:33 AM
skinsk's Avatar
skinsk skinsk is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,552
Layne. . . there's a lot in that post. . . I've had ropes get stuck (and cut!), pieces dropped (by me and not by me, including an ATC, the lid to water. . .) all reasons why experience, good communication and proper equipment are key! Stuff happens. . . so being prepared when it does is super important.

I'll bring some books and info to the Meet and Greet. . . a good opportunity to learn and practice skills that could save your (or someone else's) life.
"If you can't do something well, you might as well learn to enjoy doing it poorly." -- from a de-motivational poster, but I find it oddly liberating!
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