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  #1  
Unread 08-31-2010, 10:57 PM
MisterP's Avatar
MisterP MisterP is offline
Tim
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Geoje
Posts: 61
Interest in Trad!!!

I just got some nuts and haven't a clue what to do with them... That being said, I am down in Geoje, and I know there are some folks in the deep South that are interested in learning trad. Anyone interested in teaching or learning jump on this here thread and let's get together. Even if you just have advice on some movies to watch or books to read throw in your two cents. Also, if you know a good beginner trad crag let me know (preferably closer to the bottom of the ROK).
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  #2  
Unread 09-01-2010, 01:03 AM
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shanja shanja is offline
verticalcult
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Timm-oh matey, John Long wrote the Bible on trad climbing basics, "Climbing Anchors" I think it's called. Josh has my copy at the moment, but it's super clear, humourous and very easy to learn from.

Good trad beginner areas....well Daedunsan has a few ridge routes that are mixed trad and bolts, which helps out with safety...the grades are moderate on Friendship, New Millenium and Rescue Ridges (5.9-10b) and even when you don't need to place gear, it's a great practice thing to put lots of it in when you can, then have someone following (and with experience) assess the placements. Running it out on easy ground, though fun and fast, deprives you at times of safe gear placing practice sessions....you don't want to be learning/ trusting to it when hanging/ sketching on a mono-doit 80feet off the deck! Drop a few grades at least initially, and just play around seeing what works and what systems you can develop. Nuts are usually easy to place (like cams) when you have good bottleneck cracks, but on flaring or parallel cracks, it can be mighty hard to get anything you'd hang a hat on! Hexes, though old school can cam and are a cheap alt to cams in many situations, but cams are the easiest and fastest to place.
In all cases, be sure to try and point the trad gear cable/ draw in the expected direction of pull, should you fall on it.
Make sure it has a soft draw/ sling and won't be pulled about by rope drag as you climb past it etc.
Learn what finger sizes of a crack mean it terms of your cams/ nuts to speed up selection (colour coded gear can help this; "thin fingers = blue cam, 2 fingers = yellow hex/ green cam" etc etc)
Lastly, it's just lots of climbing (bummer eh?) and taking things slow at first. I'll see what trad is down your way and post suggestions.
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  #3  
Unread 09-01-2010, 01:23 AM
Geenie Geenie is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6
you got nuts and don't know what to do with them? don't know if this is the right website for that kind of question, mate
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  #4  
Unread 09-01-2010, 08:16 AM
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peace
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,552
OK, you have nuts, but do you have friends?

I've found hexes make nice caps for manual drive stick shifts, doorknockers and planters (the large ones). Cams are great for cracks!

Tim, I would guess that Jake is itchy to use all that new gear. . . you're just so far away. Buchae Bawi has some trad, and can be top-roped from the ridge if you want to "practice". It would be nice to hit a place like Mureung valley, though. . . amazing cracks of every size that take gear of all types. . . what are your Chuseok plans?
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  #5  
Unread 09-01-2010, 10:11 PM
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Tim
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Geoje
Posts: 61
geenie, are you winking at me? maybe this was the right website for that type of question after all.

Jake, I am going to look into that book and try to find my way up to your neighborhood to tackle one of those ridge climbs. I will let you know when i am on my way. I appreciate the advice and will certainly think about the finger test whenever i climb a crack from now on. Clever fellow.

Sonia, despite all my best efforts, I haven't a friend in the world. I was hoping that my rack would fill out with time but for now its a bit lopsided. Until then, I figured that maybe i would find a more charismatic partner who had friends enough for the both of us. Regardless, Buchae Bawi is a great idea, haven't spent hardly anytime there. There's a secret spot out in Tongyeong that we usually hit cause it is sweet and no one is ever there. I will certainly get to Buchae sometime soon. Chuseok plans are on their way...
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  #6  
Unread 09-01-2010, 10:34 PM
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skinsk skinsk is offline
peace
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,552
well, my friends are your friends. . .
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  #7  
Unread 09-02-2010, 02:11 PM
robinelijah robinelijah is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: busan
Posts: 19
hey Tim,
I have only climbed trad a few times, but want to get into it as well. I've climbed one route at Buchae Bawi, and I am very down to go back there. There is a 5.9 crack called lightning bolt, that is perfect for learning. Super sketchy blind leading the blind trad adventure time?
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  #8  
Unread 09-02-2010, 02:24 PM
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Brad Brad is offline
Jiri Jammer
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Changwon
Posts: 57
Buchae Bawi you say? Sketchy Trad leading you say?

I'm down
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  #9  
Unread 09-09-2010, 01:11 AM
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Tim
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Geoje
Posts: 61
lets do this mission soon. Buchae one day, secret spot or Ae Bawi another?
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  #10  
Unread 09-09-2010, 10:33 AM
robinelijah robinelijah is offline
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i'm officially nursing a bammer elbow until october 1st. Then I'm in.
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