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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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  #1  
Unread 05-09-2008, 09:42 PM
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skinsk skinsk is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
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anchors away!

So I went to Wonhyosan-- nice rock, really, lots of potential-- but then I got to the anchor. . . WTF I and rapped down (lowering off the corroded thingy didn't seem a good idea!). . .

I decided to go back and make some changes. It took a little gardening and rooting through my trunk for some chains, but LOOK! Note in the "before" I already removed about an inch of mud before taking the photo.
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Last edited by skinsk : 05-11-2008 at 07:50 PM.
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Unread 05-11-2008, 07:43 PM
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all backed up and ready to go

This one I couldn't get off, though it was clearly fraying on the wires and rusting on the loop! So I backed it up with some webbing, a sturdy tree and a "leaver biner"
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Unread 05-11-2008, 07:55 PM
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before and after

This "anchor", well, was more like two bolts and a cruddy piece of webbing hanging from one, so that you could only clip into the right one!

Now, while I still wish I had bigger loops or clips for the end, at least there's something to rap from and/or clip into!
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Unread 05-11-2008, 08:08 PM
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extreme makeover

for the 4th and final contestant, I chose this beauty. I was able to rip out the frayed wires with my hands. . . and while I cut the webbing, it was so frayed in parts I might have been able to rip it too! All I had left was webbing and cord, so the webbing has two separate failure points, while the cord is a triangle back-up.

Still, I think it's a vast improvement that makes this area once again safely climbable! The other anchors didn't seem quite as bad, but if you go to Wonhyosan, you still might want to bring a long sling or some more replacement parts to continue this project. Big hooks or clips for my chains would be nice
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Unread 05-13-2008, 08:12 PM
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Thanks for doing what you do!

As an extreme beginner, I appreciate the work you do to make these places safer for "rookies" like me. Thanks!
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Unread 05-14-2008, 10:42 AM
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No kidding. We were at Yongseo Pokpo for a few hours this weekend and as crappy as those anchors were these make them look bulletproof.
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Unread 05-14-2008, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
and as crappy as those anchors were these make them look bulletproof.

No kidding-- that's exactly what went through my head when I saw them. . . and had to rap on one!! or get down somehow-- that seeming the best option. . . i was going to donate my anchors to Yongseo in addition to what Jake got. . . but after climbing here, and knowing how much a bad accident sucks, I just had to return and get rid of at least the serious accident-waiting-to happen stuff! Besides, I wanted to put it in my book, but in good conscience could not send anyone up a route to, well, those!
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