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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Gear > Gear Review

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Unread 01-08-2008, 02:59 PM
shanja's Avatar
shanja shanja is offline
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Brain buckets (Helmets)

So just wondering what everyone thinks on whichever helmet they have/ have used in the past. It's time to buy KA a helmet soon and there are a few others who might find the topic holds some currency.
Personally I have been using a Camp Starlight for the past 6 years, and found it to be light, pretty comfy and unobstructive. It's a mid-hard shell with pad inserts that has a a dial adjust at back and a few typical strap lengtheners near the chin buckle.
Overall I'm really happy, but it has a few downsides.

1-You can't sit on it, nor use it as a snow shovel like true HARD shell helmets.
2-The chin buckle has popped undone a few times.
3-The chins strap is a bit scratchy, after I lost the soft velvet wrap guard.
4-Affixing headlamps is easy, but not as secure as I'd like.
5-No visor attachment (nor inbuilt) for sun/ ice-chip protection.

I've seen a few helmets out there that incorporate a built in headlamp space and visor attachments. Namely Grivel and Simmonds I think. Anyone wanna share any beta or opinions on their brain bucket?
quem deus perdere vult, primus dementat
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Unread 01-09-2008, 03:46 PM
avenue's Avatar
avenue avenue is offline
Working it out
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Seoul...(Nakseongdae)
Posts: 150
Hey Jake,

I have a Black Diamond helmet. It's really lightweight and has great ventilation, but aesthetically, I kinda think it looks like a bike helmet. I actually wish I would have bought the popular Petzl...the Elios, I think it is. Can't wait to see you and KA this season!

I can only get better....because I can't get any worse!
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Unread 01-09-2008, 05:20 PM
climbhigher14k's Avatar
climbhigher14k climbhigher14k is offline
Steadily growing stronger...
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wonju, Gangwon-do
Posts: 101

I have the Petzl Elios in the states and I have the Black Diamond Half Dome. Neither are particularly sexy, but I found the Half Dome to be more comfortable and a little easier to adjust.

Do not go quiet into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. (Dylan Thomas)
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Unread 01-10-2008, 03:37 AM
skinsk's Avatar
skinsk skinsk is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,552
After much trying on and "does this helmet make me look fat" at Namdaemun, I went with the popular (at least at Namdaemun) Trango. I have a big head and lots of hair and it fit over both (it's adjustable and ventilated so good for summer and winter). Two weeks later when Göran and I were at Yongwhasan and a climber dropped a rather large branch on me, I felt I made a good choice (both buying and wearing). . . the helmet was gouged (now covered with a sticker), my head was not.

Buy a helmet you will wear (or at least wear the helmet you buy).

I also like the headlamp attachment, but I get benighted alot.
"If you can't do something well, you might as well learn to enjoy doing it poorly." -- from a de-motivational poster, but I find it oddly liberating!
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Unread 01-10-2008, 11:21 PM
ricardo's Avatar
ricardo ricardo is offline
Aggressive Sheep
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Okinawa
Posts: 628
folks, if you're going to buy or borrow a helmet please, please, please get it fitted and wear it correctly. i've seen several pictures on KOTR of climbing sessions recently with absolutely useless helmet configurations.
It drives me batty to see folks wearing a helmet in a wrong way (tilted back, loose straps, improperly adjusted straps, helmet backwards). A poorly fitted helmet will save the noggin from most minor hits, but not when it really counts.
A helmet is designed to distribute the shock of a hit throughout the head via a system of straps or styrofoam type core. The wrong fit will not distribute the shock, but rather concentrate it. The straps are critical to keep the helmet aligned correctly when hit.
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Unread 01-14-2008, 02:12 PM
mil-mil's Avatar
mil-mil mil-mil is offline
tinker bell
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Alabama, soon to be back in Korea
Posts: 322
what does KA plan on using it for? Just rock climbing or Ice climbing or everything? I actually jsut bought my first helmet and picked up the camp silver star for ice climbing and general winter climbign activities. I think it's a good comfortable helmet that stays in place even when you are haning upside down accidently... it also apears to be decently ventilated so i will probably use it while doing multipitches come this spring and summer or belaying people at masan or other suspect climbing areas. As far as sport climbing in it it's a little bulky not heavy persay but deffinetly designed more for ice climbing and the sort then for sport climbing.

As stated befor this is my first helmet so i probably have no idea what i am talking about but i thought i would throw in my 2 cents.
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Unread 04-02-2009, 07:16 PM
Cowboy's Avatar
Cowboy Cowboy is offline
...lost again...
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Osan AB (Songtan)
Posts: 26
I've got a BD Half Dome for rock climbing, it's comfortable and light weight, for a bout the same price you should be able to pick up a Petzl Elios, I don't have any experience with that one, but the pictures look nice.

For work I have a Petzl Ecrin Best, they don't make them anymore, but do still make the Petzl Ecrin Roc, same thing but with vents. The Ecrin series are very comfortable, and wildly adjustable. Separate adjustments for head and neck fatness. The Ecrin is a bit more expensive, but well worth it IMHO. I would have gotten one of Ecrin Roc helmets for sport, but was in a danged hurry the day I got the BD, needed it right away and they didn't have the Ecrin in stock...

At any rate you should be happy with any that I've mentioned. To reiterate, what others have said, you have to wear it and wear it right to get any benefit out of it.

Happy shopping, happier climbing!
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Unread 04-02-2009, 11:24 PM
shanja's Avatar
shanja shanja is offline
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Yeah now the rock season has started in full again, I wonder if we'll see anyone wearing helmets? I saw a fair few facial cuts, bruises and gashes over the ice season, which prompted me to buy a Grivel Salamander with the dinky clear visor to afford extra pro from flying ice. Actually I like the feel of the Salamander, but it does kinda look like a really old school "Stack hat" type bike helmet...not sexy, but then again look what's going inside it and you'll see that hardly makes any difference.
The salamander is a comfy, well ventilated helmet too, though a bit pricey. I love that a visor can be slotted on in 5 seconds, and is held securely! The headlamp clips/ bungee cord are also great: square at the front to let the centre top strap on some lamps go right over and be held down too.
Adjustments are easy, but it needed some time to get the straps sorted so that they were positioned correctly around my ears, and pulling the helmet into it's proper position on my scone.
quem deus perdere vult, primus dementat
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