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Kayasan Am Jang Submitted on October 4th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollanam-Do City: Gwangyang
Park: n/a Rating: 5.7 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 8016 Photos: 6 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Faces, cracks, chimneys, roofs, overhangs, slabs all bolted and most easily accessible to toprope. (Some would be quite sporty leads). Height ranges from 6-20 meters. All of the climbs are bolted, with a few fixed pins in between. Some of the bolts are well-spaced and there is potential for decking, but most of the climbs that could be plugged with gear are less run out, and you'd likely feel you hauled extra gear for nothing. 50+ routes on several large rock outcroppings, with some bouldering potential in the area. Rock was pretty solid. Anchors consisted of mostly 2-3 bolts on the flat tops of the rocks near the edge, so some long slings for TRing are a good idea. At the end of the day clean and scramble down the back. . .

This is not a destination spot, and despite the nice day it was deserted. Still, some good climbs if you're in the area; very accessible and easy-to-get-to urban cragging!

From the Jungma-dong Bus Terminal in Gwangyang (Be sure to specify this terminal, as just saying Gwangyang will generally result in the wrong terminal about 15k away. Also be aware there's a Gwangyeong nearby. You want 광양, not 광영! Next to the bus terminal is a large, new market (Jungma Market). If you're facing the market, you can't miss Kayasan, the large mountain in the middle of the city (straight ahead). To get there it's a straight shot walking or a cheap taxi-ride. Up the stairs and across the street to the entrance. The trail heads in 2 directions, go right. . . in a few minutes of nice trail you'll come to a fitness park with some signs. Head to 적벽, the smaller trail heading left from the lower wooden bench. When the trail branches off, head right (a high step onto a large rock puts you right on the trail), then left and up just a few meters later. You'll see lots of spray painted arrows on the trail as well as a red 600 and a blue 7000. It's a steep trail (the approach takes about 45 minutes!). You'll pass the rock with the blue writing (photo) and keep heading straight up. Finally, there will be a lone blue arrow pointing down. You're near. Straight up to Jeonmadae (further along is Jungang Byeok) or left to Cheoma Bawi. . . other rocks follow the various trails. . .

Safety Concerns
A bit of run out, but even the pitons looked pretty solid.

Some of the rock/route names are on the rock.

흑진주(rock)is between 적벽 and 중앙벽. L-R 청실 5.9, 흥실 10a, 그루터기 11c, 흑진주11b, 5.9, 진주10c, 10b.
중앙벽 Jungang Byeok is 3 "blocks"-- the one on the right has 2 overhanging 5.9s
처마바위 Cheoma Bawi L-R (all but the rightmost climb are named "한울",followed by another syllable. In order they are 마 11b, 라 11b, 다 10a (the roof to offwidth that bisects the rock, yes you are reading this right!!)가 5.9, 나 5.9. Sharing an anchor with 나,on the far left, is 한가족, an 11c.
On Jeonmangdae, the well marked 허공 is a 10b. Going left from this route is a 12a, then 2 11s.

Gear to Bring
I think 6 is the most bolts on any route, so 8 draws and a 50m rope will do the trick. A couple of long slings for the anchors are good for any seconds/TRing. (I've seen Korean climbers girth hitch these directly to the bolts when they will TR for awhile. . .an idea?)

Additional Comments
No food, water, amenities on the trail (benches early on), but it's easy enough to load up in Gwangyang on the way up. Sun or shade, your choice, depending on the time of year. I'm sure there are busy days, but not the pleasant sunny holiday Monday I was there!

Comment added by Brentron on June 4th, 2014
Went last weekend, this place is falling apart. There a section of 11s just to the left of the path (named Friendship, Date, Love, Baby, written phonetically in Hangul) that have solid bolts, but most the anchors are horizontal on the top and are rusted.

I followed the crag way to the right, and most of the bolts are totally rusted out.

As is, I would not recommend the trip here, we ended up not climbing anything because nothing felt safe.

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