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Ironpalms Wall Submitted on March 27th, 2011 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollanam-Do City: Mokpo
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.14 Style: Sport
Views: 6600 Photos: 13 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

More Yudalsan "pebbles", with more variations than Kokkiri Bawi. From 8-16 meters-- slabs, overhangs, crazy corners and pebbly slabs will keep you on your toes.

South facing, the sun hits early and leaves late, with some gorgeous sunsets over the sea.

Ironpalms J (정현진) is the driving force behind this wall, a real gem that with Kokkiri Bawi makes Mokpo a destination for climbing. There's easy access and something for everyone.

This is a great winter crag-- soaking up the sun in the temperate south. In summer, the trees may provide some shade, but the foliage might get thick in places. The crag is U-shaped, so the 7 right-most climbs lose the sun earliest.

The crag is on Yudalsan, Mokpo's biggest "mountain", just north of the port and easily accessed from the city. The trailhead begins across from Mokpo Maritime University 목포해양대학교 (also the closest bathrooms). The trailhead starts in the neighborhood just across from the school. Follow the main road through the neighborhood-- it becomes a staircase that leads to a grassy field (with a min-bak to the right). Take the grassy path through the small clearing; it turns into a stony path as it enters the woods. About a minute up, the toad Ts. Head left about another minute. A side path heads right and up-- if you get to the really nice trail, you've missed the turn-off. Head straight up 5+ minutes and the trail forks by a huge boulder-- go right (if you go up, you'll reach stairs that go to the top of 일동바위). Another 5+ minutes down the trail you'll see the approach trail heading left. If the foliage isn't thick, you can spy some anchors from the turnoff. In 2 minutes or so you'll be at the crag. It takes about 20 minutes from the street. In summary. From the main street, head up by 유달수퍼 (Yudal Super) to the top of the residential area. The road becomes a staircase which becomes a grassy path across a clearing and then a stony path through the woods. All together, this takes about 5 minutes. This hits a bigger trail; head left about another minute to a stony path heading up. 6-7 minutes on this, and you get to a big rock where the trail forks. Go right (not up) about 6 minutes, looking for a small trail left that gets you to the crag in a minute or two.

Busses to Mokpo Maritime University run from all over Mokpo and bring you near the start of the trailhead. You could easily take a taxi to the University, too.

There's no parking, so to speak, in the village, but off road, or across from the trailhead at the Uni (during the weekends, at least) there are more options.

Safety Concerns
The 28 routes were bolted from 4/2006 to 10/2009. . . a few bolts/anchors are showing some age. The pebbles seemed pretty solid, though, and bolts where you wanted them.

Gear to Bring
10 draws and a 50 meter rope will allow you to do all the climbs. There are several 3 pitch ridge routes in the area.

Additional Comments
Amenities are all in Mokpo. There's a small supermarket at the base of the approach where you can get drinks/snacks, but bring what you need for the day.

There's a minbak just before the clearing, but when we want it was full (of "students drinking soju" I was told in English). . . we stayed at the Hotel Macao just north-west of the mountain, which had a weekend rate of W45,000 for 5 people in a nice min-bak style room. There are a few restaurants nearby, but better options if you head downtown.

Comment added by dmtaillon on August 12th, 2011
Does anyone know if there is any cliff top access for top roping here?

Comment added by skinsk on October 15th, 2017
I think it would be hard to TR here without leading first. Kokkiri Bawi-- the other crag here, might be possible to TR, though might require a belay or rap to the anchors to set up.

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