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Muido Submitted on September 8th, 2009 by dan13 Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Incheon
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 9264 Photos: 29 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

what kind of rock?
not sure.... seems super chossy in some places , and totally solid on other routes

according to one topo there are like 80 or so routes on the whole island...the area we found had about 20-30 ranging from about 5.8-5.11 and anywhere from 10-20m

1. take the subway or airport bus to incheon international airport and then go to the third floor to catch a short ride on bus 222 to Muido (make a note here: there are 2 different buses with the same number,222, get the one to Muido, the other one goes to a different ferry).

2. get on the ferry for like 2 minutes then take the only green village bus to HANAGAE YOUWONJI (the beach and climbing area.) approx. 15-20mins.

3. once you get off the bus, buy your tickets to enter the beach and then walk past and through the shops and restaurants til you get to the beach.

4. when you're on the beach, keep walking left about five minutes to where the rock starts and the beach ends, which then leads to the climbing....you'll see some nice cliffs soon after...

Safety Concerns
anchors without manky bombed out wire death triangles....
seems koreans are finally catching on--solid anchors with chains

none of the routes we tried seemed to be runout either.....nice, shiny, new bolts for your clipping pleasure...

cause this crag is so new it still needs to be cleaned......so it can be CHOSSY! belayers watch out, on my first climb I pulled off a huge early 80s microwave size rock and nearly decapitated danielle my belayer....that being said helmets are a good idea.

Gear to Bring
just your usual set of draws, 60m rope should be fine...

Additional Comments
check the tides if you can... when we went the first time the tide just happened to be out all day which let us climb no problem.....if you get there at high tide you might not be able to climb til it goes out again...

this crag gets a lot of sun as there's not many trees, there might be some shade later in the day or early morning on some of the climbs....

there's a convenience store nearby to get snacks, water and beer for post climbing consumption...

a few of the usual korean seafood shacks selling squiddies, clams and other raw stuff...

we camped on the beach right next the climbs,
looks as if there lots of other options if you don't have a tent...

if you're just planning a day trip the last ferry off Muido back to incheon airport is at 20:00, (however I don't know when the last green village bus which takes you from the climbing to the ferry is...check it out if you can)

Comment added by skinsk on September 14th, 2009
Found this thread on KOTR
which should give you pause when planning your trip. Have fun and be safe!

Comment added by chersland on June 15th, 2015
We went to Muui-do and climbed last weekend, and it was easy to get there following the description above. We took at taxi from Incheon Airport to the Jamjinnaru ferry terminal, which was about 9,000 won. Split on 3 people, this is a very reasonable alternative to the bus.

If you plan on tenting, you should probably do this at the camping site at Hanagae beach, since the ground by crags is generally very rocky and not flat. The flattest part is the sandy beach, which will suddenly be covered by the tide, so keep this in mind.

Camping at the beach was an extra 5,000 won per tent per night, and we could then use the bathrooms and wash basins that are all over the camping site. If you prefer a roof over your head, you can choose between some nice-looking and some quite old/rotten "minbaks" that are all over the camping area. We didn't try this, so I do not know the quality or prices for those.

A nice source for handy info regarding how to get there is WikiTravel: http://wikitravel.org/en/Muui-do

Here is a blog I found, with some pictures and grades for parts of the crags: http://sanejoa70.tistory.com/m/post/198

All in all this was a very pleasant place to go to! Not crowded at all; nice climbs in the sun; and the possibility of taking a swim in the ocean (preferrably during high tide, so you don't have to walk 2 kilometers first). There are many vertical and slightly overhanging, short routes, which is a pleasant change from the run-out slabs in Seoul.

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