Faces! (80-120 degrees) routes with a lot of (mostly bolted and/or pitoned) cracks, aretes, corners, small roofs. . . in the northern tip of Mudeungsan, the park just east of Gwangju.
There are 32 routes, but the easiest are 5.10a. The routes are stout-- nothing really for beginners. 7-34 meters in length; one pitch. Pro varies from newish to pretty old rusting pitons. . . my partner pulled an anchor apart (we didn't weight it, thankfully, but the 3 thin wires had frayed all the way through) but we didn't remove it from the one bolt boulder-problem route.
Some routes, but not all, have grades (on painted rocks) below
Heading S on the Honam Expressway, exit E. Gwangju and follow the signs to Mudeungsan Park. Head towards 원효사/Wonhyosa (temple) but below the temple you'll head down towards 충장사/ Chungjangsa, and take a right (towards Damyang, Geumkok and Gwangju Dam). In Keumkok/금곡, before you'd get to the Dam광주댐, there's an earthenware museum to your right-- this is the turnoff. Just past it is BuBu Garden/부부가든 restaurant. The turnoff is just before and across from a bus stop. The stop is Geumgok/금곡, and it points to the previous stop Chungjangsa/충장사, and the next, Gwangju Dam/광주댐 (labled in Korean only). There were some busses, though infrequently, coming out here, but taking public transportation would add quite a bit to the approach! You can see Seonbi Bawi/선비바위 from the main road. . . go just past the museum and park along the dirt road, or follow the paved road closer and park in a pull out. On weekend the few parking pullouts may be full; don't block the road as ranger vehicles do use it! Step over the road block (or around it) and follow the road. Intermittantly you'll be able to see the rock. The "trail" is past the boulderfield (left) a few minutes (where you have a good view of the rock). Keep going-- you'll have a great view in front of you-- until the road makes a sharp turn right away from the rocks. just before this turn you'll see some trees with yellow ribbons. (There are some before this too, so look for the sharp turn and check out navigational photos.) head up and right (at the big boulder) towards the rocks. No real trail; pick your poision and be careful on the big boulders. Don't rely on the trees for your balance!!
Pretty well bolted, but some bolts are rusted, as are some of the old pitons on man of the routes. A lot of cracks (bolted and not) that would take gear.
One severely overhanging (120 degree) 5.13 is 34 meters; several are over 25.A 60 meter rope is best; tie a know in the end.
One old fraying anchor came apart-- all 3 strands. Bring extra webbing, TR off bolts, consider options for descending /reinforcing anchors that look sketch.
The base is nice, but the ledge on the big, hard wall is full of stickers. The anchors on the short face below are sketch/rusty and/or broken.
Boulder filled approach (though through the "woods" don't take the boulderfields!!). . . be careful not to step in a hole, slip on leaves or lean on a rotted tree!
Gear to Bring
The 34 Meter 5.13 has 13 bolts; the other route 3 to 12; a dozen draws is minimum, extras for anchors would be nice, as would gear for the cracks. Extra slings and webbing could come n handy. A 60 meter rope would allow for most climbs, possibly even the 34m 5.13 as it's severely overhanging, but I'd definitely tie a know in the rope for this one. A 50 meter rope would be too short for several climbs. If you're climbing the cracks, might want to tape your fingers.
Shops and restaurants before the main turnoff. Parking is limited, and gets crowded with picnickers on nice weekends. Deserted at other times. It's in the shade early, and comes into the sun in the afternoon. Beautiful area!