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Bueongsae Rock Submitted on September 26th, 2007 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Miryang
Park: n/a Rating: 5.7 - 5.13 Style: Sport
Views: 7752 Photos: 2 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Vertical to overhanging, with some nice edges and crimpers and small roofs. On the low end, there are two 6m easy climbs-- a 5.7 and a 5.9, another short 10a and a 20 meter 10a--after that the routes get longer and harder (to a 29m 13b, one of three 5.13's in this rather compact crag!). There are 20 routes total; several share anchors. The names and grades are written at the base.

A Sport-y(capital S)-sport gem in an area better known for old trad, aid and ridge lines, it reminds me a little of Halmae Bawi, though it backs up to a romantic "fusion" restaurant, instead of a defunct eel-place. Driving by, I couldn't miss the spotlights shining on this beautiful rock. Thinking, "if this isn't developed it should be," I pulled over, tromped through the soggy ground and voila. . . it was Bueongsae!

From Miryang, take 24 E towards Pyochungsa (if you're rained out-- visit this temple-- one of Korea's most beautiful!), and hang a right on 1077, still following the signs to the temple. The rock is on the right, behind the Noblian Restaurant (see navigational photos). Park on the unpaved road just after the restaurant, as their parking is limited!

Busses run from Miryang to Pyochungsa-- stopping along the way. Ask the driver to let you off at the Noblian or the closest stop!

Safety Concerns
"Typical" triangle anchors of clamped metal or webbing, so slings to back them up make sense. Many routes are over 25m (to 29m) so be sure you have a 60 meter rope (and/or that your middle is well-marked). The height of each route is written on the rock at the base of the climbs. The crag was developed in 2002 by the Busan Cimbers, and the gear looks pretty good.

Gear to Bring
Half the routes have a dozen or more bolts (up to 16!), so bring a full sport rack and a friend with a rack! And a 60 meter (or more) rope!!

Additional Comments
There are minbaks across the street just 100m or so before the crag, and the comfortable reasonably-priced Young Motel a little more than a km down the road past the crag (and across from a bus stop!)

Archival photos show camping beneath the crags; better ask at the restaurant first. There are tables/platforms and a grill at the base. Floodlights bathe the rock in light after the sun goes down (it's off the rock pretty early, so winter climbing might be brisk). Several dogs run free, but they are friendly enough. Bring rawhide toys and ingratiate yourself. There are plenty of businesses within walking distance-- mom and pop stores, etc. There are no public facilities at the crag; a good reason to check out the minbaks? Otherwise bring bags for waste and carry it out! We don't want to lose access! The restaurant blares American 70s-80s music, mostly disco, so be warned if you don't like ABBA and Marvin Gaye.

Comment added by tombanjo on June 8th, 2010
Apparently climbing is now prohibited at bueongsae as per the request of the owner of the land/restaurant.

Comment added by bhylenski on July 20th, 2012
Bueongsae is now open, again. After 5 years of being closed...Thanks to KOTRi, Busan Climbers and Adidas Korea! Check out this article


Comment added by bhylenski on September 26th, 2012
This crag was closed in 2007/2008, reopened in 2012, May. But, the landowner is doing some construction for the next couple of months. Will notify when open again.

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