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Goryeo Submitted on May 14th, 2004 by Eric Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Chungcheongnam-Do City: Daejeon
Park: Gyeryongsan Park Rating: 5.7 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 9711 Photos: 6 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 3 Image(s) - Add Images

First of all, I have heard this rock called three different names. So last weekend I asked the man who bolted it what the name is and he said Goryeo. You might know it by something else.

This is some nice, fairly solid granite in Gyeryongsan National Park. There are actually three small climbing areas here. The first area you come to is a great place for beginners or to warm up. It's one climb on moderate slopping slab.

The second area has a multi-pitch climb. The first pitch is a mix of slab/face and is rated about 5.9. The second pitch has a heady 5.10 move on it but the rest is 5.9 or less.

The last area has about 4 climbs and 2 anchors. The climbs are mostly 5.8 but getting off the ground requires a few 5.10 moves. There is also one really fun 5.11a/b face climb.

Most of the rock is pretty solid, offering nice ledges and flakes to pull on.

Bus Directions:
From Daejeon, head to Gyeryongsan National Park. The bus will be heading towards Gongju. You want to get off the bus as soon as the bus takes a left on the street that leads to the parking lot. That puts you about 5km away from the parking lot. From the bus stop, walk back the way you came (20meters) over the bridge and you will see a gravel road that follows a small stream. Take that road about 10 minutes.

After about 10 minutes on the 'road' you will see a small house on your right and some sort of walkway over the shallow creek on your left. Go left, cross the river and follow the narrow rice paddy levy that heads toward the mountain. There is a small, heavily vegetated trail at the other end of the rice paddy. The first 50 meters is thick but after that the under-growth thins out. Follow the trail up the mountain passing 2 tombs. When you come to a giant, gently slopping face that usually has Chinese writing on it, go up. It's a little sketchy, so if someone in the group is not comfortable with the 'scramble' you might set-up a hip belay from the top. As you get to top of the slab there will be a trail that heads off to the right. Follow that trail and you will come to another gently slopping slab. Near the top of that slab is the first climbing area. Follow the trail up further to the headwall and you will find the multi-pitch. Go to the left around the wall and you will find the 4 other climbs.

By Car:
Drive toward Gyeryongsan National Park. Continue past the road that leads to the park and take you first right hand turn after that. Go under the highway and park near the house. Walk toward the mountain. Follow the directions from above.

Typical directions for climbing in korea
Total hike from house is about 15-25 minutes

Safety Concerns
Most of the bolts and anchors look good except for a few at the first area. The multi-pitch climb had a rusty old piton on it but I pulled it out, with a light tug.

Gear to Bring
You can get by with some draws and a few slings to wrap around horns. Sometimes a set of medium sized cams come in handy if you don't want to run-out some of the sport climbs. A 50 meter rope is plenty!

Additional Comments
The hike in is a little scary for some folks. It's steep and in the rain could be very dangerous. I have been here often but rarely see a soul. Food and water are about a 30 minute hike away.

Comment added by Eric on May 19th, 2004
This area might also be known as Bakjeongja.

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