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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas > Search Results

Bu Chae Bawi Submitted on May 21st, 2006 by mp31bravo Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Busan
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 13994 Photos: 25 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 4 Image(s) - Add Images

Near Dae Ryuk Bong in Busan. In fact, the directions are almost the same, save for a few minor details. The rock is granite, and there are two sides to the rock, one is the North Wall, and one is the South wall. 27 routes in all, which range from easy 5.8 to a 5.12a. Had I not purchased the Rock Climbing Guide (in Korean), I never knew this gem would have existed. It's face climbing with some cracks to jam your fists. The bolts are pretty new, but I have found some ancient ones from years gone by. There is also a great bouldering area during the short 20 minute walk to get there. There are climbs on some other areas, too. I saw numerous toprope anchors all about. The pictures say it all. Keum Jong San has a famous "wall," many "gates" and the climb is right off of it.

As if you are going to Dae Ryuk Bong. Get bus #203 from Own Chun Jang sunbway station. Get off at Dong Mun (East Gate). It's the only "road" on the right side of the street as you go up the long mountain road. It's almost at the top of Keum Jung mountain. From there, walk to the East Gate and pass through it. Follow the trail at the right and walk about 30 minutes. You will see the rock formations, bouldering area, Etc. There is another trail on the right that will take you to the bottom of the face climbs. Ask any Korean in the area for Bu Chae Bawi and it will be pointed out to you, no problem.

Safety Concerns
No rock falls. Rock is nice, solid granite. Busy on Sundays. But, any Korean would gladly Belay you, as this is a "training area." No other safety concerns are needed.

Gear to Bring
Basic sport climbing. 10-15 quickdraws and basic gear as well. You can also bing some trad gear if you want. Nice cracks to practice leading if so desired.

Additional Comments
In summer, there are some vendors. I would bring my own water and food and maybe my own little stove for Ramyon....

Comment added by skinsk on May 21st, 2006
It's worth noting that there are many other crags in this park! Even Busanites can keep busy a long time!

Comment added by riddle on July 3rd, 2006
There are many bouldering and toproping opportunities in the area, but in order to do the "routes" you will need the trad gear in addition to the established bolts.

Comment added by skinsk on March 13th, 2007
Buchae and Daeryuk were both "roped off" in March 2007 (pretty much all of the trails had ropes to keep people from wandering), though people obviously went under the ropes. The turnoff for the trail for Buchae was not marked, but there was a sign for the adjacent Nabi Bawi (나비 바위) that will take you to the base.

Comment added by riddle on May 24th, 2007
An addition/correction to my previous comment:

The north face of Buchae has established anchors and a few scattered bolts, but is primarily a trad wall. The south face, however, is fully bolted, with the majority of the routes in the 5.11-5.12 range (about 8 routes in all on the south face).

Comment added by Dong-il on July 19th, 2008
Top and bottom pictures above are Nabi Bawi(나비바위), which can be easily seen on the mountain road. From there it'll take about 10 mins to the base of Buchae Bawi.

Comment added by bhylenski on August 5th, 2011
Ok let's start by saying the directions to the trail are ok, but after that....il just add my two cents. The pictures for this crag are terrible. Only one of these pictures actually identifies buchae bawi! The others are Nabi bawi and Mu myeong ridge...and then a bunch of photos next to random boulders. Please have a look thru mp31bravo personal photo album and find the one worthwhile photo of the northface. When you reach the east gate, look for the trail marker that says 북문 (north gate). There are multiple ways to the east gate, so don't assume left or right. Look for the marker. About 15-20 minutes up the trail, you will pop up on the ridge, buchae bawi is to east side and below the hill. Walk along the red fence and keep an eye out for the north face. You will have to look back behind you. The trail is overgrown and not marked, so you will need to hop over the fence 20 meters past the wall. It's not difficult, but if you follow mp31's directions you will end up either at Mu myeong ridge or way past it, looking for a nonexistent rock. I will add photos with red arrows to mark the trail, have a look.

Comment added by bhylenski on August 11th, 2011
I added an image with instructions, that will easily guide you there, once you reach the ridge.

Comment added by Kantoplainsrock on June 25th, 2012
The last time I climb here is was great the only thing is the train station is misspelled. The station name in Oncheonjang... Thanks

Comment added by alpingoat on March 15th, 2018
There are a lot of bolted areas around here, so it was difficult to find this specific rock based on all the directions above. bhylenski's directions are good, but hiking times vary and fence colors change over time. Here are coordinates to various spots to get you there. Hope this helps…

Bu Chae Bawi: 35.259731°, 129.066240°

Parking: 35.242285°, 129.062320°. This lot only fits a handful of cars. There’s another lot a couple hundred meters downhill to the east. If that one is full, too, then you’re on your own.

Trailhead: 35.241878°, 129.061656°

Climber’s trail: 35.259231°, 129.065928° this is the approximate location of the trail that heads down to Bu Chae Bawi on its south side. Once you descend the climbers’ trail, you will see an obvious area where people set up. Before you get there, you’ll see another trail that branches off to hiker’s left, wraps around the west side of the rock and drops down to the north face climbs. There may be a more direct trail to the north side, but I din’t see it.

First bolts were high on a lot of the climbs and I didn’t see a stick clip laying around like you do at a lot of other places. Consider bringing your own.

I hope this isn’t bad form, but I’ve re-uploaded mp31bravo’s pic with the rock marked on the photo.

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