Bear--all good points, and each situation requires different considerations. . . almost case by case, because multiple factors are in play. Your dynamic belay examples were cringe-worthy. I had a pretty bad accident quite a long time ago due to slamming back into a bulge with too much rope out. I have a loss of flexibility in one ankle, and now (after snapping metatarcels hiking and being lowered) require a dynamic belay on overhangs where there's a chance of whipping back quickly into the rock, including a lot of artificial walls, including when I am panickedly yelling "take"
. . . Miguel, Kim-lee and Mike come to mind) which is why I don't advocate one method over another (some small people catch big falls without a flinch! but this is a skill both learned and lucked-upon!). . . I look for a partner I trust (who has built that trust and who's paying attention to me and knows what they need to do-- which can be anything from a steady stream of beta, a few words of encouragement, and not making me think about the belay at all. . . )
I wouldn't tie tightly into anything. . . I need room to move (out of the way) more true at some crags than others (but I even need some wiggle room in a hanging belay). . . I need to be fairly comfortable. . . depending on the line and verbal communication, I want to see the climber. . .I like my daisy for this, but always have something to lengthen it. When no alternate exists, it's time to use experience and judgment. Scope the route. How would the climber fall at each point? Is there anything like a flake or ledge that the climber could hit with too much/too little rope? Has the climber tried it before? Where did he/she fall? Jess caught Kris at Kanhyon on the 5.12? coming out of the cave when he fell and the last clip--into an old piece of fixed webbing-- broke. . . but she was married to the guy. . . she'd built up to it and was ready!
In 25 years of belaying (knock on wood) I've never dropped anyone significantly nor ever had an injury. I am proud of that. However, having been on the bad side of some "loose belays" . . .I tend to be more cautious now, but thanks to some friends (many from Korea! some Korean!) realize that we all reach different levels of what's acceptable, like clipping into some god-awful anchor that's hanging by a rusty thread. I mostly err on the side of caution-- but I didn't always-- and sometimes that resulted in bad decisions! but usually not. Same as driving in Korea-- sometimes when you're here long enough, you start using the shoulder, double parking, doing things you've never do at home . . . fortunately there are lots of experienced and reliable climbers on KOTR who are willing to share what they know. . . and new people bringing new perspectives!
It's great to have a forum like this, though, so people can think about all the various options (and situations) in order to make good decisions (and read through the gruesome tales of lessons learned (for god's sake don't play with the snakes at yongseo!! or the snakes anywhere!!)! While much progress has been made on routes here, Korea is quite it's own scene, still seeped in tradition (large clubs) and strong passion . . . and it's strengths are enough to keep us here and get us stronger! So use good judgement, share what you know (and learn what you don't!) and practice what you used to know! Take care of your partner(s) but also know what you're doing and how to get yourself safe in the event of an emergency. (Do you have a plan to get to a hospital?)
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