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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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Unread 02-06-2009, 01:32 PM
willpower willpower is offline
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sokcho
Posts: 121
Check the Bolts!

As most Kotr folks do a fair bit of sport climbing; just a reminder for everyone to check the condition and type of bolting on the routes that they climb.

It follows a tragic accident in Australia where poor bolt selection on a route is being attributed to the death of a climbing brother.

The bolts were later pulled with the help of the wildlife and outdoor services. Video Here.

I would advise all climbers to read up a little more about rock and bolt types rather than to simply assume that its 'a bolt and hence it must be safe' (were all guilty). The BMC have couple good article thats a must read for all sport climbers.

Essential reading!

Climb Safe. Will.
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Unread 02-06-2009, 07:55 PM
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shanja shanja is offline
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Thanks Will. The accident was tragic, and in some ways uneccessary. For us living in Korea it should wake us up...it's 90% sport after all. After the winter freeze and thaw, even the best bolts can be made less than bomber. We all know of a few bolts we regulary clip and then pray like true believers that we never fall on them, so as the rock season looks about set to get going again, please be careful. Back up those anchors too (especially if you expect to be TR-ing or hang-dogging the route).
If a bolt looks dodgy see if you can back it up with a bit of trad pro or as I did at Ganhyeon once, switch routes and bail on the route entirely.
Finally, no matter how uncool it might be to the fasionista brigade, HELMETS are way sexier than death, extended stays in hospital and facial disfigurements. It doesn't have to be your fall, bad climbing or mistake that puts your head in the danger zone - rock or gear dropped from above, a pendulum into a sidewall, bird-poo, popped ice-axe etc.
quem deus perdere vult, primus dementat
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