Home

Navigation
Home
Climbing
Forums
Area Photos
Search
Search Climbs
Search Photos
Search Forums
Submissions
Add a Climb
Add an Area Photo
Add a Fun Photo
Quick Links
Rock Climbing Areas
Rock Climbing Photos
Ice Climbing Areas
Ice Climbing Photos
Gyms
Gym Photos
Bouldering Areas
Bouldering Photos
Artificial Walls
Artificial Wall Photos
User Links
Register
Today's Posts
Calendar
FAQ
Korea Links
Weather
Train Schedule
Korea Travel
Climbs by Province
Jeju-Do Jeollanam-Do Jeollabuk-Do Gyeongseongnam-Do Gyeongsangbuk-Do Chungcheongbuk-Do Chungcheongnam-Do Gyeonggi-Do Gangwon-Do Province
User Name Password
Calendar | Register | Lost Password?

Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Unread 08-15-2011, 08:23 PM
tyadams's Avatar
tyadams tyadams is offline
crimber
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wonju
Posts: 27
bolts falling off the wall and loose and missing bolts at ganhyeon

this thread is not to report an accident or injury. just a little update that might help prevent one from happening.

just got home from a weekend climbing at ganhyeon (august 13-15) and thought i should share a few thoughts as it is a very popular crag especially with the foreign crowd living in the north.

a few things to note:
first, the climb called "revolution" or "gae-hyeok" is now missing a bolt at the first crux section of the second pitch a few meters above the anchor of the first pitch. it is now quite run out to the next bolt and a fall could very easily result in a rather long whipper and potentially land the climber on the ledge where the first pitch anchor is located. there is an old piton located about a meter above the lower bolt that the local korean climbers recommended be clipped and if it holds a fall, could save one some pain. i have seen many climbers fall on that section so i highly recommend that one recruits somebody familiar with the climb to lead it for your top-roping pleasure until you feel comfortable with the sequence. hopefully they replace the bolt soon.

second, a climber had just finished the classic "aelida" and was pulling the rope through the draws when suddenly one bold just popped out of the rock and fell to the ground with quick draw attached. it wasn't even a bolt at the crux section (one or two bolts above the overhang in the midst of all the jugs) it wasn't clear why it just popped, but it did. so be careful especially with the spinners.

third and last, the multi-pitch routes are very popular and see a LOT of traffic. even still, over the weekend a climber managed to dislodge a rather substantial chunk of rock that would spoil anyone's weekend. it landed in the middle of a popular rest/eating spot on the left side of the crag directly below the main routes. luckily there was no one there at the time, but just a reminder to be careful and listen for warnings when under the multi-pitch routes.

be safe (:
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Unread 08-17-2011, 05:48 PM
P_Freeman P_Freeman is offline
pizzle nizzle
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jeongseon
Posts: 44
scary....thanks for posting this!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Unread 08-17-2011, 06:19 PM
nate45's Avatar
nate45 nate45 is offline
Let's throw some rope!
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Guemchon - 60km NW of Seoul
Posts: 54
Gnarly stuff. I'm looking at a topo for it now since I dont have the routes memorized... is "revolution" number 29 or 30 on the main wall? http://www.powerclimbing.org/amgong/gan.htm
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Unread 08-17-2011, 06:48 PM
tyadams's Avatar
tyadams tyadams is offline
crimber
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wonju
Posts: 27
my pc doesn't want to recognize the korean on that link but as best as i can tell revolution is number 22 (5.8/5.11c) although the new map at ganhyeon has it downgraded to 5.11b. in fact, it seems a few of the routes have been re-graded.

if you are familiar with the classic climb aelida (10b) with the fun overhang move then revolution is easy to find. it's the super long route located only a few climbs to the left of aelida. revolution shares an anchor with another marathon climb just to the right of it.

hope the bolt situation doesn't discourage people from trying the route. it's so much fun and i don't know anyone that hasn't enjoyed climbing it.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Unread 08-20-2011, 02:49 AM
skinsk's Avatar
skinsk skinsk is offline
peace
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,543
wow. . . and those are some classic climbs-- but getting older and obviously showing it. While I bet those bolts are replaced soon (the area is kept up well), the hundreds that were put in about the same time and that have taken just as many falls/takes/etc are probably in need.

thanks for the post and a good reminder! (I have also witnessed rock fall just under Revolution . . . a chunk that just missed me and a crowd).
__________________
"If you can't do something well, you might as well learn to enjoy doing it poorly." -- from a de-motivational poster, but I find it oddly liberating!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Unread 08-22-2011, 04:38 PM
wheelis's Avatar
wheelis wheelis is offline
Dude
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Hwacheon, Gangwon-do
Posts: 57
Yeah, I actually took a rockfall to the shoulder when pulling a rope on Revolution.

It's definitely a mistake to think that just because a crag is climbed frequently that all the loose rock has already fallen off. Ganhyeon gets so crowded and condensed...it's a good idea to wear a helmet at the base...
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Unread 09-06-2011, 08:14 PM
nate45's Avatar
nate45 nate45 is offline
Let's throw some rope!
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Guemchon - 60km NW of Seoul
Posts: 54
Confirmed. cleaned a football sized rock off the belay ledge on one of the left most climbs. Hopefully it will stay clean.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump





All times are GMT +9. The time now is 01:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.