Wanna learn trad?

skinsk · #1 10-21-2008, 07:23 PM

This weekend I am hoping to get folks to come out to Donghae, to Mureung Valley, where there is a plethora of 5.9 cracks. . . it's a good opportunity to practise trad, and for newbies to follow, remove pieces and look at placements, etc. It's not a bad idea to get into trad early on, so the discrepancy between your sport and trad grades doesn't totally discourage you later. Trad rocks. . . it allows you to get up mountains and climb pristine lines (not theat they don't have some bolts and anchors here-- they do!) And, quite frankly, I'd like to get some photos!

We could do various workshops on jamming and crack technique, gear placement and anchors, lead belaying, rappelling, ascending, etc. . . if people were interested.

proudestmonkey · #2 10-22-2008, 08:56 AM

Hey Sonia-How far is this place from Seoul? Is there any way I could leave the city early Saturday morning? I also have no gear (other than a harness and shoes)...but I have been wanting to get out and get high on some trad climbing! Let me know.

Chickenlegs · #3 10-22-2008, 10:17 AM

Just straight driving with no public transit issues, it's over two hours from Wonju, so I would guess at least three from Seoul since it's right on the East (Dong) Sea (Hae). After you get to the park, it's about a 45 minute hike in to the climbing. As far as busses, I'm guessing you would do to Gangeung (spelling?) and then get a more local bus down to Donghae.

skinsk · #4 10-22-2008, 10:19 AM

Michelle. . . it's actually here under this post, but I thought I'd start the trad thread as my initial post didn't really play up the trad aspect. Luckily everything is convenient to Seoul. . . well, Donghae (literally East Sea, eh) is on the other side of the penninsula, but busses get there in 3 and a half hours. They leave from Dong-Seoul at 7:10 and Gangnam Express Bus Terminal as early as 6:30.

I'd love to see you. . . and the other pad people! You know, there's also sea-side bouldering at Chuam Beach right in the city!

Mostly 1-2 pitch, so you could just jump on a rope. . . try seconding first, take stuff out, see how it goes in, see how you like the whole gear thing.

shanja · #5 10-22-2008, 11:26 AM

I would LOVE LOVE LOVE this, but alas I have a good nmates wedding in Seoul this Sat night and some sneaky trad plans on the bong also. BUT if another trip out there could be set up, maybe Nov 8-9 I'd take my rack and polish up the trad skills...but be nice to have someone more competent there too. Thanks Sonia!

skinsk · #6 10-22-2008, 11:55 AM

Jake. . . whatcha doin' Thurs or Friday. . . I was hopong Daedun Thurs and Waegwan Fri?

shanja · #7 10-22-2008, 07:13 PM

Thursdat (tomorrow?) I'm working all day. Friday I'm off to Seoul for a wild weekend of shopping, Insubonging and even a wedding! Slight chance I may be free Tuesday next week if my Seoul class gets cancelled. Sorry.

proudestmonkey · #8 10-22-2008, 08:36 PM

hey Sonia-not sure yet what i'll be up to (trad or boulder....!?!?!) will let you know by tomorrow night!

Michelle

dmclean · #9 10-23-2008, 03:52 PM

I normally don’t post info on KOTR but I used to live in Donghae so I will try to be helpful.

There is a climbing club that usually meets on Sat or Sun to climb at the crag, you might run into them.

There are actually several areas to go climbing in Meureung. The trad area that I know of is near the "Twin Falls." It is sparsely bolted necessitating trad gear.

Donghae is about 3 1/2 – 4 plus hours from Seoul, depending on traffic. The cheaper buses run from the Dong Seoul Terminal. You can get a bus to Gangneung and then a bus to Donghae. Buses run between Gangneung and Donghae every ten minutes until 10:10. I have heard of people catching later buses.

The bus number to Meureung is the 12-4. It’s difficult to explain where to hop on the bus.

There is technically a campsite at Meureung but it is just a parking lot. There are some, very few, cleared areas near the crag at the Twin Falls to camp but I think you shouldn’t make it obvious that you are planning to stay overnight. There is also a hotel at the base where the shops are.

skinsk · #10 10-23-2008, 05:10 PM

Thanks Dave-- the Twin Falls area is the one we're headed for-- Byeongpoong Bawi. I saw old thread on Haksodae, but nothing that looked nice or do-able. . . haven't seen or heard of any sport climbing around, but if the locals are there, that would be great. It seems like people have been there. . . when we went we saw a left hat, some stashed stuff. . . signs of life.

Spense, when were you planning on leaving Uijeongbu?! (I know it' hard to co-ordinate times, but if you have a few minutes before your bus takes off and they have a row of computers. . . try to get on here and post the time, so I can try to meet up with you. . . also if your bus stops at a rest area, there is usually an information center with free internet. If you log on and tell me either when you left Seoul or will arrive Donghae, I can do my best to meet you there.

the forecast for the weekend looks great. . . a minbak is a cheap room you can rent (and cram people in. . .) Korean style bedding.