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  #1  
Unread 05-23-2006, 02:34 AM
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rockboy rockboy is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seoul, Sodaemun-Gu
Posts: 61
Lightbulb The Life Of A Rope (Beals Perspective) -May 23rd 2006

LIFETIME DYNAMIC ROPES AND ACCESSORY CORDS


• Lifetime = Time of storage before first use + time in use.
The working life depends on the frequency and the type of use.
Abrasion, UV exposure and humidity gradually degrade the properties of the rope.
Note that with use, a rope thickens and thus loses up to 10 % length.
Storage time: In good storage conditions this product may be kept for 5 years before first use without affecting its future lifetime duration in use.

Lifetime:
- Intensive and daily use: 1 year.
- Weekly and intensive use: 2 years.
- Daily in-season use of average intensity: 3 years.
- Weekly in-season use of average intensity: 5 years.
- Several uses during the year of average intensity: 7 years.
- Very occasional light use: 10 years.

Attention: These are the nominal lifetimes indicated, a rope could be destroyed during its first use. It is the inspections which determine if the product must be scrapped more quickly.
Proper storage between uses is essential. The lifetime of the rope in use must never exceed 10 years.
The total maximum lifetime (storage before use + lifetime in use) is thus limited to 15 years.

The rope must be retired earlier:
- if it has held a major fall, approaching fall factor 2
- if inspection reveals or even indicates damage to the core
- if the sheath is very worn
- if it has been in contact with any active or dangerous chemicals
- if there is the slightest doubt about its security



BEAL SEMI-STATIC ROPES LIFETIME


• Lifetime = Time of storage before first use + time in use.
The working life depends on the frequency and the type of use.
Abrasion, UV exposure and humidity gradually degrade the properties of the rope.
Note that with use, a rope thickens and thus loses up to 10 % length.
Storage time: In good storage conditions this product may be kept for 5 years before first use without affecting its future lifetime duration in use.

Lifetime:
- Intensive and daily use: 6 months.
- Daily use of average intensity: 1 year.
- Weekly and intensive use: 1 year.
- Weekly use of average intensity: 2 years.
- Periodic daily use of average intensity: 3 years.
- Several uses during the year of average intensity: 5 years.
- Very occasional light use: 10 years.

Attention: These are the nominal lifetimes indicated, a rope could be destroyed during its first use. It is the inspections which determine if the product must be scrapped more quickly.
Proper storage between uses is essential. The lifetime of the rope in use must never exceed 10 years.
The total maximum lifetime (storage before use + lifetime in use) is thus limited to 15 years.

The rope must be retired immediately:
- if it has held a fall
- if inspection reveals or even indicates damage to the core
- if the sheath is very worn
- if it has been in contact with any active or dangerous chemicals
- if there is the slightest doubt about its security



BEAL HARNESS LIFTIME

• Lifetime = Time of storage before first use + time in use.
The lifetime depends on the frequency and the type of use.
Mechanical loads and rubbing diminish the properties of the harness little by little, UV and
wetness may lead to accelerated ageing.
Storage time: In good storage conditions this product may be kept for 5 years before first use
without affecting its future lifetime duration in use.

Lifetime:
- Normal duration of use: 5 years.
- Occasional use: 10 years.

Attention: These are nominal lifetimes indicated, a harness could be destroyed on its first
use. It is the inspections which determine if the product must be scrapped more quickly.
Proper storage between uses is essential. The lifetime of the harness in use must never exceed 10 years.
The total maximum lifetime (storage before use + lifetime in use) is thus limited to 15 years.

A harness must be scrapped:
- if it has sustained a heavy fall even if no damage is apparent
- if the webbing has been damaged by abrasion, cutting, chemical agents or any other means
- if the stitching has been damaged
- if the buckles are not working well
- if it has been in contact with any active or dangerous chemicals
- if there is any other doubt as to its security
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  #2  
Unread 05-23-2006, 09:30 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: sokcho, gangwan-do
Posts: 73
i assume that the statement "The rope must be retired immediately:
- if it has held a fall" is referring to a factor 2 fall. for those unaware, a "factor 2 fall" is where the climber falls twice as far as the amount of rope out. consider a leader starting the second pitch of a climb with the anchor as his only piece. if he climbs 3 meters and falls, he falls 6+ meters on 3 meters of rope. a factor 2 is the worst case scenario for a fall and one which places the most strain on the climbing system. (to calculate the fall force, just divide the length of the fall by the length of rope out).
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  #3  
Unread 05-23-2006, 02:41 PM
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rockboy rockboy is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seoul, Sodaemun-Gu
Posts: 61
Quote:
Originally Posted by punchy
i assume that the statement "The rope must be retired immediately:
- if it has held a fall" is referring to a factor 2 fall.

They state "if it has held a major fall, approaching fall factor 2"

p.s. The UIAA drop test requires that single dynamic ropes hold at least 5, 1.77 factor falls, not factor 2. and with an impact force lower than 12KN on the first fall.


Quote:
Originally Posted by punchy
consider a leader starting the second pitch of a climb with the anchor as his only piece. if he climbs 3 meters and falls, he falls 6+ meters on 3 meters of rope.

In this case, rather than retire the whole rope, I would simply cut off that 6 metres and keep the other 54m for climbing! "waste not, want not," right?
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