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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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Unread 08-15-2011, 09:23 PM
tyadams's Avatar
tyadams tyadams is offline
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wonju
Posts: 27
bolts falling off the wall and loose and missing bolts at ganhyeon

this thread is not to report an accident or injury. just a little update that might help prevent one from happening.

just got home from a weekend climbing at ganhyeon (august 13-15) and thought i should share a few thoughts as it is a very popular crag especially with the foreign crowd living in the north.

a few things to note:
first, the climb called "revolution" or "gae-hyeok" is now missing a bolt at the first crux section of the second pitch a few meters above the anchor of the first pitch. it is now quite run out to the next bolt and a fall could very easily result in a rather long whipper and potentially land the climber on the ledge where the first pitch anchor is located. there is an old piton located about a meter above the lower bolt that the local korean climbers recommended be clipped and if it holds a fall, could save one some pain. i have seen many climbers fall on that section so i highly recommend that one recruits somebody familiar with the climb to lead it for your top-roping pleasure until you feel comfortable with the sequence. hopefully they replace the bolt soon.

second, a climber had just finished the classic "aelida" and was pulling the rope through the draws when suddenly one bold just popped out of the rock and fell to the ground with quick draw attached. it wasn't even a bolt at the crux section (one or two bolts above the overhang in the midst of all the jugs) it wasn't clear why it just popped, but it did. so be careful especially with the spinners.

third and last, the multi-pitch routes are very popular and see a LOT of traffic. even still, over the weekend a climber managed to dislodge a rather substantial chunk of rock that would spoil anyone's weekend. it landed in the middle of a popular rest/eating spot on the left side of the crag directly below the main routes. luckily there was no one there at the time, but just a reminder to be careful and listen for warnings when under the multi-pitch routes.

be safe (:
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