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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Accidents & Injuries

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  #1  
Unread 08-16-2007, 04:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
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Anchors from home

Anyone coming from home might bring some chains and connectors for anchors, as well as a big clip. I'd warn against any closed loops for Korea because people aren't used to them and might not climb prepared (to clean them). I think it was Paul? from KOTR who speartheaded (and did much of, himself) the anchor replacement at Kanhyon (and what beauties they are now!).

I know the local/Gwangyang and Yeosu climbers keep up Yongseo (notice how they redid the bathroom? still dodgy but no-longer scary for safety issues). . . but I still remember my first time clipping into one of those anchors (the kind with the triangle of thin wire cord through 2 bolts, clamped shut and backed up?/kept from fraying with duct-tape! then single line of the cord until another trangle clamped shut with an old semi-closing fish hook ) I looked down at Rick and I was like, "I'm not sure if I should laugh or cry." And they're still there-- I kinda warn people now so they're not surprized at the top.

Anyway, I still have some chain anchors-- damn it, I left one pair on the 10a way right around the corner at Halmae Bawi!!-- and while I think most things could be purchased in Korea (Jake?!), if you've got the space and weight allowance, consider bringing one or two sets. I know I feel better buying such things in the US).

I'll also take suggestions on where to work on anchors, but Yongseo--so close to me and so fun to climb in Autumn-- seems a sensical place to start!
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  #2  
Unread 08-16-2007, 05:18 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wonju, Gangwon-do
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Chain Anchors In Korea

If anyone can give info as to where climbing-grade stainless steel chain anchors and hooks can be procured in Korea, I would be extremely interested. I am more than willing to invest time and money to replace anchors in many places.

If anyone can help, please contact me!
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  #3  
Unread 08-17-2007, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
If anyone can help, please contact me!

or better yet, post the beta here!
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  #4  
Unread 08-17-2007, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Exclamation

I'll do a search and start asking around...wow! this is so awesome to see KOTRers taking on this issue. Makes me feel warm and fuzzy, I wanna help too damn it! In fact I'd like to replace some bolts too, but I haven't the experience to do it safely. Anyone out there wanna run a "how to place bolts workshop"? Maybe the chains and anchors could be got from the states via one of those noble and super service-person types via an APO? If that were a goer maybe we could do an anchor/ bolt collection fund thing at the M&G? Imagine if 40 odd KOTRers just kicked in 20,000won each...that's a lot of dosh I think. Maybe a raffle thing where you get a ticket for every 5,000won you donate, at the end of the M&G a lucky winner gets a smicko prize of some sort. A new harness, a cam, a slab of beer whatever!
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  #5  
Unread 08-22-2007, 09:53 AM
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Location: Alabama, soon to be back in Korea
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If they are not availible in korea i would be more then willing to have them shipped to my apo aswell as chipping in $ and helping replace worn out old and rusty or in some cases anchors that just werent safe to begin with.
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  #6  
Unread 09-29-2007, 06:46 AM
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Taking Orders...

I'm in the states currently. I can buy some stuff and bring it back or ship it back to myself. Just tell me what to get and I'll either go to REI in Albuquerque or my local climbing shop here in Las Cruces. Nice climbing here in NM for a change. No lines, nice anchors, realistic grades...but really, Yongseo is a great idea, those anchors are super sketchy!!!
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  #7  
Unread 10-08-2007, 10:28 PM
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anchors

i'd be down for $30 worth of chains (10" or so) and links to attach them. . .for yongseo i was inspired. . . if it weren't kinda gross, i'd say the dead snake looked better than some of those things we were clipping into!
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  #8  
Unread 10-08-2007, 10:50 PM
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Ross mate how do we get cash to you? Like Sonia, I'm in for buying a few new anchor chains and bolts. If REI or whomever there have genuine rock climbing stainless steel (not plated) bolt and hanger sets (Metolius, Fixe etc) for medium hard rock (not granite) I'll kick in $50US or thereabouts for the purchase thereof. The bolts as I understand it should be half inch s/s expansion bolts of not less than 3 inches length.
The following is a guideline of reccommended bolts from Australia 12mm=half inch, 75mm=3inches:
Ramset 12mmx75mm SS Hex-Head Dynabolt DP12075HSS
Powers Flush Head Sleeve 12mm SS FHS1275SS
Powers Power-Bolt Anchor 12mm SS RBHM1370SS
Fixe 12mmx75mm Triplex SS Expansion
Hilti 12mmx102mm SS HSL-G-R
If you can get that sorta bolt with decent hangers I'll be happy to see my cash go to getting them back here. $50 US should get about 6-8 such sets I guess...but I dunno. I won't even insist on where they get placed, public vote on where to replace is fine. Thanks for the offer. Let us know how to pay you.
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  #9  
Unread 10-09-2007, 04:17 PM
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I'll donate to the cause as well (let's say 30,000 won since I don't have any dollars left), but I have no idea what to do with any of it!! It would be cool to learn, though. So if anyone wants to put up the chains/bolts etc, I'll purchase them!
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  #10  
Unread 10-14-2007, 06:02 PM
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I'd also be willing to throw in 30,000 won to the cause. Let me know when you guys get something together.
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