shoes

[skinsk]

everyone needs 'em-- boulderers, crack-addicts, even plastic-pullers, so i figured we'd start this forum with the all important: shoe.

a girl can never have too many pairs of rock shoes. . . well, even though prices are coming down rapidly, and it's not uncommon to snag a new pair for $50 or less, the sad truth is, it's hard to buy rock shoes because by the time you break them in/know if you like them, it's way too late to return them. rock shoes have come a long way from the days where masochistic climbers believed painful shoes allowed them to feel each nuanced rock feature. likewise, all the major brands have good sticky rubber. my opinion: unless you're really looking to add to your collection with high performance shoes (to give you that extr edge for a 13b!) or specialized shoes (cracks, multipitch. . .) go for comfort-- something you'll wear. that said, it should be snug, no extra room or it'll surely stretch. most people don't wear socks. all of the major brands (and many off-brands) are decent, though I've had cheaper 5.10s come apart pretty early, and boreals that seemed to last forever and overreach what they were intended for! that said, the last few years my money goes to madrock. started as the first economical climbing shoe-- they were not/are not universally accepted, but i've had the flash (orange with funky-heel hooking thingies!) and mugen (ugly name, ugly shoe: red splashes on white and black rubber). . . both edge well, and were super comfortable from the first weekend to more than a year later. . . never getting too sloppy or too stinky . . .

of course, all feet are made differently. climbing shoes especially should be tried on before buying. they will stretch out some to conform to your foot, so trying a friend's won't necessarily be a good indicator. . . nor even is trying it on the in-store bouldering wall. unlined and thin shoes will stretch the most. slightly small shoes can be worn in a warm bath-- just be sure to dry them in the sun and not let them mildew! hope this helps!

[Ricky]

Good idea, Sonia! This guy I know in Mokpo could have used this thread...but unfortunately it's too late. He picked up the Maccosyms (sp?) and they're way too big. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the best way to buy climbing shoes is to go about half a size to one size smaller than your regular shoe size. And women...be aware that many shoes are labeled for Men's sizes. I wear a 6 women's and 4.5 men's. I can't actually wear women's shoes though; my foot is too wide. Also, synthetic shoes smell really bad. But what can you do? eh! They're climbing shoes.

[Chickenlegs]

Originally Posted by Ricky

Also, synthetic shoes smell really bad. But what can you do?

You can wash them, if they are synthetic. A good washing can work wonders... especially after places like Thailand.

[Ricky]

You're right. Actually I just threw all my shoes in the washing machine. They came out nice and clean and a little pink since I washed the Galileos with my old school red five tens. The Anazasies came out a little less smelly, but it didn't take long to funk them up again.

[skinsk]

it didn't take long to funk them up again

You can wash your feet, too!

[mil-mil]

I recently invested in a bottle of Dr. scholls odor destroyer shoe shoot powder and have found it works better then washing.

[shanja]

Well Sonia, I can assure you, even us guys can never have too many shoes...I went through my shoe collection the other day (Imelda Marcos would have been shocked! )...there were slippers, high-tops, lace-ups, velcros, trad shoes, sport-shoes and sad to say most were well past their prime...some downright nasty (smell-wise and condtion-wise). I have had to bite the bullet and chuck three pairs recently...my La Sportiva Cobra slippers (who never recovered from Thailand- that place destroys shoes and gives THE worst foot-funk!) also my super comfy old school Trango Carats which sheared apart at the toe last outing in the G... and finally my high-top La Sportive Enduro's, the holes were just bigger than anyone would fix. So looking about to replace them and get another pair resoled (La Sportiva Testarossas) I have picked up a pair of La Sportiva Venoms. (You can tell which brand fits my fat foot best). For 140,000won I got a pair of these babies, a kilo of chalk and a pair of leather belay/ rap gloves...so I think it was a fair bargain. Funny thing is though, in all my different shoes (I can remember owning some 12 or 13 pairs) I've never found consistent sizing!
In the same brand sizes vary so much. My Testarossas are a 39.5, my venoms are 40.5 and the old Cobras were a 41!
I have noticed that overall though, the comfort of rock shoes has really improved. When I first started climbing, it was a session in torture, now even the tighest, most radically twisted shape shoes can be really comfy! I think the lesson is to really pay attenion to size and fit. Find out what works for you and ignore what others recommend if it isn't feeling good for you. That said all shoes need a few days to break in...a few minutes on then off at home watching TV for 3-4 days is a good trick.
I am yet to find any fully satisfactory cleaning/ deodorizing methods. If anyone has please post here!

[skinsk]

I still had/have some prickily heat powder from Thailand(hey--they make the foot funk, they should get rid of it)-- the minty stuff in the tin-- that I used with my splint when my foot was last broken. Not perfect-- but after 3 weeks in the same splint (hiking, jumaring. . .) it worked decent. . . just not sure where to get it here!