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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Gear > Gear Review

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  #1  
Unread 04-24-2008, 11:49 AM
shanja's Avatar
shanja shanja is offline
verticalcult
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Trad anchors the easier way

OK guys this is not a product endorsement, as I haven't used this thing yet. But for those of you who trad, or are thinking about it. Building your own bomber anchors is a vital (and I do mean vital in it's original sense) skill. Backing up pro, redundancy, non-extension etc are key concepts. Trad climbing anchors can be frighteningly complex to rig. Here is one product that looks like it will simplify things a tad. And best of all it's intro pages are good examples of good anchors and how they should be rigged anyways.

http://www.mtntools.com/cat/mt/webolette/webolette.html

Jogn Longs book on Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors are readily obtainable and super clear books on the subject, well worth getting if you want to trad safely.
Climb safe and keep learning.
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  #2  
Unread 04-24-2008, 11:31 PM
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Ilsanbro Ilsanbro is offline
Jiri Jammer
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dobong Gu
Posts: 100
Another option is to buy a super long runner and clove(clove hitch) each point of protection. Once each point is cloved, clip each piece and tie off the remaining slack from the runner. Voila, you have a an equalized anchor that wont be shock-loaded when that #2 nut is just not enough.

If you are just starting out with placements and anchors try on the deck first. Take all of your gear on a hike with you(extra training), find some stone, and place all but three pieces within 50 meters. Next, take those three pieces and make an anchor. This will give you that confidence to take it to the bong and keep those palms dry!

This is a great resource on the web for anchor building.
www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF
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  #3  
Unread 03-11-2009, 05:13 PM
TLayne TLayne is offline
Jiri Jammer
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Near Konkuk univ.
Posts: 90
Wow thanks
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