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  #1  
Unread 09-03-2006, 11:58 PM
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climbingclaw climbingclaw is offline
Climbing Claw
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Gwangj, jellanamdo (From Ohio and Michigan)
Posts: 13
Chu-Sok vacation

Hi everyone,
We are in Gwangju and are looking to stay in Korea to climb and backpack for Chu-Sok. We have Sat. Sept 30th to Sun. Oct. 9th off. We have read the reviews writen in the virgin thread about Jiri and Sorak san. What we want to do is climb for three or four days then backpack three to four days without our climbing gear. Wondering if anyone had suggestions on good places to do some easier 5.8 climbing, muti pitch trad hopefully. Then a way to store our climbing gear . Suggestions on where is best for the backpacking. And if we might find more solitude in the first part or not. P.S. we don't have a car or this would all be too easy. Also, we only have one rope, and if you know of a economical way to get another rope for rappeling purposes would be nice.
Thanks
Craig
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  #2  
Unread 09-04-2006, 09:12 PM
melanielove melanielove is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ilsan (NW of Seoul)
Posts: 28
I'm not too sure about storing your stuff but wanted to let you know that you are technically only supposed to sleep in the mountain huts when you're "backpacking" in Seoraksan. This may not be a downer for you but it was for me. I know it's still backpacking but it really threw me off b/c I was expecting solitude versus sleeping in an overcrowded hut with a dozen people who snored. It was a good experience though. I'm personally used to taking off into the woods, not seeing anyone for days and setting up my tent or sleeping on the ground where ever I like. I haven't found anything like I just described anywhere in Korea but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist! And it may not be what you're looking for anyway. There are people who work at the mountain huts cooking food and such so, you actually may be able to work something out with them. Maybe someone else has tried this?!

Good luck to you!
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  #3  
Unread 09-05-2006, 01:43 AM
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skinsk skinsk is offline
peace
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,545
Hello!

I am also off (except Wed, but I think that will change!) and plan to head to Seorak/Kangwon-do (and possibly Ulleung-do, which can be reached from Sokcho). This sort of makes up for the "vacation robbery" last semester. . .

Anyway, close to Pisandae there's a big peak with multi-pitch trad. I'll try to dig up info on the easiest ratings, but there is a route map on the wall at the Pisandae shelter. Some of us stayed there last Chuseok-- not exactly crowded, and the others there (including some top climbers in Korea and friends I hadn't seen in years!) were pretty quiet. . . usually we were the last to bed, but we took it outside. . . actually got in some moonlight skinny dipping (no one to gawk). Hiking in excellent, and we managed to get in aid, trad and sport with a half day at the beach! You could leave your gear at the shelter and go and hike the park a few days. I have done this. Hiking in Inner Soreok and off the main "cattle" trails . . . or at Odaesan . . though it's still likely to have some people. Other options: Mi-Reuk-Jang-Goon Bong looks really nice for easy trad and Steve (are you reading this?!) has a nice photo of a place in NW Kangwon-do. . .

You can always leave excess stuff in lockers at the bus stations. Bring lots of change for this.
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  #4  
Unread 09-26-2006, 09:51 AM
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newclimber newclimber is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Daegu/Gyeonogsan
Posts: 11
Coming from Gwang-ju

Ulleungo-do is a nlice place to travel to. If you are coming from Gwang-ju, you can access Ulleung-do from Pohang. I think its about a 3 hour ferry ride, but the ferry only runs once a day - it travels to the Island in the morning and leaves the island in the afternoon (you can sleep there, I don't know about camping, we stayed in a min-bak).
Have you thought about renting a car for the week?
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  #5  
Unread 09-26-2006, 11:51 AM
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shanja shanja is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Skinsk if we popped up to Seorak would you be willing to gimme the basic beta on aid? Never tried it, looks way scary...and yet I wanna have a go, must be a useful alpine skill, eh? Is there any beginner friendly stuff round Pisondae/ Ulsan Bawi for KA to do some single pitch 5.8-5.9? Even if it's trad that's cool too, I'll bring a full rack.
Also, we only have one rope, and if you know of a economical way to get another rope for rappeling purposes would be nice.
Thanks
Craig

Craig mate, I dunno how safe it is (maybe Rockboy with all his tech knowledge and info could weigh in here) but I've seen a fair few Koreans using regular 10mm (or less) nylon rope from a hardwear store as a designated rap line (NEVER AS A CLIMB LINE!)...it is pretty slick so you'd need to tie the bends really well, but it might be a good enough option. Before people jump on me for this I'm not endorsing it as such, but putting it out there as a thought. Boardman and Tasker fixed damned near all their famous route up Changabang with 8mm sailing nylon rope...and jumared up and down it for weeks! Gutsy to say the least.
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  #6  
Unread 09-26-2006, 12:13 PM
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punchy punchy is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: sokcho, gangwan-do
Posts: 73
if we were going to be around sokcho for chuseok, jenn and i could offer a place to stay and all the beta you could need. unfortuantely we'll be heading down south at that time.

...though i can still offer up some beta for you. regarding what melanie said; yes, technically you're only supposed to camp at the designated huts in the park. i've overnighted in the park more than a handfull of times and have always bivied or tented out with no problems. lots of koreans do the same, so i don't really know how enforced the no camping rule is. just be conscious about where you set up a tent and about what kind of footprint you're leaving behind. it goes without saying that you should pack out whatever you take in. there are lots of beautiful "no trail" trails that are virtually void of hikers, save for a scattered savy solitary korean taking advantage of the lack of crowds. they have been the nicest hikes i've done in the park.

there is certainly some crags around. if you're looking to do trad, consider ulsanbawi. it has some brilliant easy multipitch routes that will take you to the top. beta regarding route finding and descent will be crucial before engaging any of these though. me-ryeok-jang-geum-bong would be an ideal place to put in some long easy trad routes, though it's been closed off since a huge mudslide wiped out access to the area a few months ago. it should be reopened in another month or so.

hope this helps. if you have any more questions, feel free to post them here or send me a pm and i'll do my best to answer them.

greg
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  #7  
Unread 09-26-2006, 01:25 PM
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skinsk skinsk is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Jochiwon (Sejong City)
Posts: 2,545
Jake. . . the aid at Jeok Byeok I would not be up to leading now, though I followed last year. . . but the plan was maybe Ulsanbawi with Mary. . . if you me and Mary bring our trad racks, Goran mary, you (and maybe me) ropes. . . Craig and Heather have a rope. . . I will bring my Ulsanbawi route guide and we can surely do some trad/aid there. . . I get the feeling some of the 5.9+ trad will become aid for me. I will bring my aiders (should I bring jumars?!) and we can all practice. . .it's been years since I really tradded (though a wee bit o'aid and trad last Chuseok. . . ) If we do adjacent routes we could combine our ropes for rapping.

Anyone else considering it. . .? Ulsanbawi is not a far hike in, super easy to find and we can plan to meet up in the park. Mountain huts in the park, camping near the huts (or elsewhere. . .plenty of what looked like good places near Sotuwang Falls sport climbing area. . . accomodations of all kinds from hotels to sea-water saunas in Sokcho. If you've always wanted to learn trad or multipitch, or if you're just new to climbing and interested in practicing technical skills, Jake or myself or Mary can explain exactly what Jake means in his recent "gear review" post. . . as I am guessing quite a few folks are reading it and scratching their heads!! I for one could use some brushing up, but would be willing to share what I know! If you do want to do aid, you might consider buying aiders/etriers or just lots of extra webbing/cord that you can tie into steps. . . and a few extra biners.
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  #8  
Unread 09-26-2006, 05:08 PM
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shanja shanja is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Daejeon
Posts: 1,386
Thanks to Punchy and Skinsk! The beta is very welcome indeed. I guess I'll have to buy a pair of etriers now. That got me thinking though, we do have a lot of members with limited or 'focussed experience', and many looking to try out new things. Maybe we could try and work out some semi-organized weekend workshops for various techniques/skills etc. Totally volunteer based of course, but you know if someone happened to be well versed in anchor building/ double-rope/ twin-rope/ dynoing/ hauling/ aid climbing/ rescue or whatever and felt like sharing the knowledge with others...well it might be a good thing. I'd be happy to run a intro to rescue/haul systems/ glacier roping event if anyone waqs interested. caveat emptor, I'm not UIAA certified!
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