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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Gear > Gear Review

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  #1  
Unread 05-27-2009, 07:13 PM
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Eric Eric is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Owen Sound, Ontario
Posts: 676
Beal Flyer II 10.2mm - not as good as it used to be

I bought a Beal Flyer (10.5 I think) back in 2003 and it was a sweet rope which I got about 4 years of outdoor lead climbing on.

I was so happy with it that I bought a new one last summer (http://www.backcountry.com/store/BEA...Dry-Rope.html).

Unfortunately after only 1 year of lead climbing in the gym, I've had to cut about 3 meters off of each end of this rope. About 2 meters in on each end, the rope had become so flat and the sheath so frayed that I was getting sketched out. You could bend the rope between your 2 fingers without seeing daylight in the bight.

I also spoke to another person at the gym who had the same experience with the same ropes. The ones in the past held up great. The new ones fell apart fast.

He also recommended a Sterling rope. I'll be checking out Sterling in the future as I think I'm done with Beal.
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  #2  
Unread 06-01-2009, 01:20 PM
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dangerflower dangerflower is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: korea
Posts: 105
hey there! i HAVE to pitch in here!

i bought a 60m 10mm Beal dry-rope (not sure which one, it's blue?..) almost a year ago, and have used it anywhere from intermittently to often in the past year. however, the ends fray so badly that it seems like i have to cut off a metre or two almost every time i go climbing nowadays! (i generally lead climbs, although i've done a few top-ropes in the past year, and i do hang-dog sometimes, but i try to pull on the draw and clip in to my harness rather than weighting the rope when i do, about 50% of the time, at least.)

my rope is now closer to 40m and only good for artificial wall climbing, if that, anymore (and i almost never go to artificial walls)...very sad that i bought this rope...it was not a good buy, i'd say! i will definitely never buy a rope like this one again.
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  #3  
Unread 06-01-2009, 02:17 PM
supertopoz supertopoz is offline
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gyoung Ju
Posts: 97
I have two cents.

Don't buy Mammut or Beal.

Mummut also has a traditional telephone, hand set cable making factory, and those guys sometimes get mixed up between the two.

Beal also works with a fraid knot manufacturer and they too get mixed up.

As my old man used to say, get out the back garden and steal a bit of your mom's washing line, its ten times cheaper and will make you climb ten times harder. He was right with a bit of that tied around my waist I almost never fell off. When I did, I was back on the wall in a shot, none of that hang doging business. Mind you the dog would really have been hung, had it climbed with that thin nylon round its neck.

Be careful out there, you rope is your life. "You don't need an edge tested rope" the man in Yosemite once told me. they have been making good rope for 50 years, before they added the edge test gimmick.
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  #4  
Unread 02-01-2010, 10:02 PM
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dan13 dan13 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: anyang
Posts: 55
has anyone ever tried edelrid?
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  #5  
Unread 02-04-2010, 04:34 PM
gt29905 gt29905 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nowon, Seoul
Posts: 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by supertopoz
Mammut also has a traditional telephone, hand set cable making factory, and those guys sometimes get mixed up between the two.

True, but they last forever
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