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Go Back   KOTR Forums > Climbing > Climbing Chat

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  #1  
Unread 05-29-2004, 04:45 PM
supertopoz supertopoz is offline
Mud? Low in fat high in fat? Mud.
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gyoung Ju
Posts: 97
Check out what the ASCA has to say about bad bolts.
http://www.safeclimbing.org
There are thousands of bad bolts and slings across this country, so some advise.

1. Don't fall onto your first bolt if it looks old.
2. Don't trust any insitu slings, carry a knife and some spare webbing to make replacements.
3. Cut away old webbing and you might find very little underneath.
4. If your belay station is situated next to any kind of crack, back your self up with a cam or nut.
5. Encourage, you local team to replace those rusty 1960 killers.
6. When falling onto an old bolt try to imagine how many people before you did the same thing.
7. belay dynamicaly.
8. If it looks really bad, place gear and or use a screamer.
9. Be aware that the person placing the bolt in the first place probably had no idea what they were doing.
10. don't ever trust you life to a single bolt.

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  #2  
Unread 05-29-2004, 04:47 PM
supertopoz supertopoz is offline
Mud? Low in fat high in fat? Mud.
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Gyoung Ju
Posts: 97
Sorry no way to move this to another place.
Ahhhhhhh
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  #3  
Unread 05-29-2004, 04:50 PM
Eric's Avatar
Eric Eric is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Owen Sound, Ontario
Posts: 681
Supertopoz,

Welcome to Korea On The Rocks! And thanks for all the gym postings and other useful information!

I moved your thread to 'General Chat'.

Later
eric
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Fall: To retreat in dynamic fashion from a climb.
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  #4  
Unread 05-29-2004, 07:58 PM
antepater antepater is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 117
Those are great pointers. Especially in Korea. I think points. 1,2,3,6,9,10. Especially 9 have special meaning here. I've talked about this with other climbers around. Overall, do what you think you can live with or without should everything fall apart.
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