Saddle A high pass that looks somewhat like the horsewear. Not quite as steep as a col.
"Safe" The British equivalent of "Off Belay".
Schwag Terrible rock conditions.
Scrambling Easy climbing, usually unroped.
Screamer A very, very long fall.
Screamer Special piece of equipment meant to reduce the impact of a screamer (the fall) on the belay system.
Scree Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below a cliff. With every step, scree slides under your feet.
Screwgate The type of karabiner that can be locked with a screw. See also twistlock. In the US this is usually called a 'locking biner'.
Scrube A hammer-in, screw-out type of ice screw.
Second The climber who follows the leader. See also following.
SendTo climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send this route, dude!"
Serac A block or tower of ice on a steep glacier or in an ice fall. Since seracs are created by the force of gravity working on the glacier or ice fall, they can come down at any moment. pl.serak
Sewing-machine leg or arm A leg (or arm) under tension that suddenly starts jerking up and down like a sewing machine. Stretch the muscle, take a deep breath, and don't think of falling... (see also: to Elvis or the death wobbles).
Sewn-up When so much gear is on a trad route that it looks like it has been sewn shut.
Sharp end The end of the rope to which the leader is attached.
Often heard during a fall... (Well educated climbers in the UK sometimes say "sugar" - but only if they're not in too much trouble).
Short roping Technique where both climbers are tied close together into the middle of the rope. The rest of the rope is then carried over the shoulders in a coil. Frequently used for simul-climbing. The term (and technique?) is used frequently in the Canadian Rockies.
Short roping Belaying technique where the belayer keeps the leader under tension in an attempt reduce the length of a fall.
Side pull A hand hold that needs to be held with a horizontal (sideways) pull.
Sit start To start a bouldering problem from a sitting position. See also 'Yabo Start'.
Sierra wave A lenticular cloud found mostly in the Sierras, but known to be forebode of bad weather in the Mont Blanc area.
Sketch pad A cushion used for bouldering.
Skyhook A particular type of hook used for aid climbing
Slab Flat and seemingly featureless, not quite vertical piece of rock.
"Slack" Yelled when the climber needs more rope (e.g. to clip into protection).
Sling What the Americans call a runner.
Slingshot A toprope setup where the belayer belays on the ground (where the climber starts climbing) and the rope is pre-clipped through the anchor at the top of the climb. In the UK, top-roping or bottom-roping (depends where the belayer stands).
Sloper Pathetic downward slanting hold. (Usually look like buckets from below.)
Smearing Foot technique where a big part of the climbing shoe is used to generate as much friction as possible. The opposite of edging.
Snaplink A truly British word for a karabiner.
Softman / softwoman A former hardman/woman who can accomplish climbs of epic proportion in comfortable style. Always has the warmest jacket, the biggest sleeping pad, the best food, and the finest of consumables. A title to aspire for.
Climbing alone, though not necessarily without the protection of a rope (unless you're in the UK, where a solo is always a free solo).
Climbing routes of (extreme ?) gymnastic difficulty while protection oneself by clipping copiously numbered and generously spaced preplaced free protection.
SprayTo brag or gloat.
StemBridging with the feet between two holds (US only).
"Stick it" American slang meaning "hold on" or "go for it".
Sticht plate A belay device consisting of a plate with two slots in it. An original creation by Franz Sticht.
Stoked Fired up, ready to play, very excited, really wanting to finish a particular climb.
Stylin?Looking good, climbing well, having the most colorful clothing.
Stylin?Living like a softman or softwoman.
Summit The top of a mountain or rock.
SummitTo reach the summit.
"Take" American monosyllable for "Up Rope". Also used by top-ropers and sports-climbers to indicate that they have reached the top and want to be lowered.
"Take in" The British equivalent of "Up Rope".
"Taking in" Heard often in British crags, meaning the climber is "off belay" and about to pull up the slack between him and the belayer. Talus Large blocks of rock. A coarse variation of scree.
Tape knot Or threaded overhand knot in the US.
TarnA small lake.
10essentials That part of your climbing gear you don't want to leave at home.
"Tension!" Yelled out to the belayer to make sure he really takes in the slack. Usually "tension" is used by a climber that is ready to pop off. The progression of severity usually goes "up rope", "tight rope", "tension!".
"That's me" Part of the climbing dialogue. Courtesy call to the belayer to indicate that the slack in the rope is all taken up and that further pulling is pointless.
Third classing Climbing without a rope on easy ground (see also class)
Solid but not failproof knot also known as water knot or tape knot (UK), or ring bend when used on webbing.
Thrutchy Requiring a whole lot of strength (and enthusiasm in a way). Used in Australia - where all the climbing is upside down.
Tick marks Little smears of chalk used to locate holds when bouldering.
"Tight rope" Or just "Tight". Urgent request to the belayer to take the slack out of the system. Somewhat stronger than "up rope".
Toe The bottom of a buttress.
Topo A short drawing of the route. Good topos will allow you to spot the line right away, show the placement of bolts and belay stances, indicate where the crux is and what rating it has.
Top-rope Free climbing a route that has the safety rope attached to the top of the climb (usually one walks to the top to set up the top-rope belay).
Touron A cross between a tourist and a moron. Typically asks stupid questions like 밐ow did you get the rope up there??Definitely the lowest form of life on earth.
Trad Traditional climbing, characterized by the placing of protection (cams, nuts, etc.) in cracks and pockets. Trad also includes multi-pitch routes often with long runouts.
Trad fall A fall during a trad climb, sometimes accompanied by the popping sound of protection succumbing to the temptations of gravity. See also 'crater' and 'screamer'.
Traverse Horizontal climb.
Trucker Synomym for 'Bomber'. A trustworthy piece of pro.
Tunnel A tunnel through or hourglass shape in the rock that allows a runner or cord to be fed through for protection.
Twistlock A locking karabiner where the gate is locked with a spring-loaded clip.
Undercling A hold that would be a perfect bucket if gravity were upside down. As it is, underclings are usually awkward holds that require lieback type moves.
"Up Rope" Yelled by the leader or the follower when she/he wants a tighter belay. (In UK: "Take in" or "Tight" or even "Watch me").
Verglas Thin water ice on rock.
V?en Great, super. "Everything's v?en."
Warthog A roughened spike hammered into certain kinds of ice or frozen turf for protection. Very popular on mixed climbs in the UK
Call to indicate the climber is about to do something stupid -- like fall. Water ice Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water ice is clear and brittle and contains few air bubbles. Sometimes water is even flowing around the ice. Can be found in the couloirs of the High Sierra in autumn (and in many other places).
Water knot See tape knot.
Way Extremely. 밒 was way scared on that run-out?
Webbing (tubular) Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow in the inside.
Webbing (loop of) A runner made of webbing.
Weighting The delicate test of placing weight on a piece of pro after placing it. Usually with aid climbing.
Whipper A very long fall.
Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms from melted-and-frozen snow. Good climbing stuff.
Wombing Doing a no-hands-rest.
Woodie A homemade climbing wall.
Yabo As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start'. Named after John Yablonski a stud southern California climber, who was nicknamed Yabo.
YardTo pull on a piece of protection. Strictly speaking aid climbing.
YDS Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American rating system.
Zawn A deep and narrow fold or inlet in a sea cliff. British.
Zipper A fall where the protection pulls out one after the other as the leader succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a grounder (or a cardiac arrest).
Z-Pulley System Complicated rope setup that allows you to hoist heavy weights with relatively little force. Excellent for rescuing or hauling bags.
Last modified 5 December 2000. Copyright ? by Carl Ockier
-do you think Carl will mind? Besides he couldn't decide himself weather it should be copyrighted or not, check out the ? mark! Also, I edited it alot.