Safety?

[Mandalynn]

Nicole and I were talking about how cool it is that so many people are starting to lead at the same time. Personally, I know the basic mechanics of leading, but I feel like alot of the small things like bad habits, I only learn about when someone points out that I shouldn't have done something after I finish the route.

So.... can one of you experienced climbers either direct us to a good book or website that is user friendly and non-technical as possible? Or better yet, would you be willing to put on a mini-clinic on the does and don't of safe leading?

[dan]

Not sure about websites, but here's some books:

John Long's "How to Rock Climb" is an extremely entertaining and well written book on the basics of rock climbing. This guy is the most talented rock climbing writer you'll find with great explanations and funny anecdotes. There are many books in the series including "Advanced Rock Climbing" and "Climbing Anchors"

As for a more technical approach..."Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills" tells you everything you'll need to know.

[skinsk]

Mountaineering (now in it's Xteenth edition) is comprehensive in going over almost everything you need to know about climbing (trad, aid) and mountaineering in all of it's aspects. Slightly dated editions go cheap. John Long is an excellent climber and his HTRC has been translated to Korean among other languages. He also has updated the guidebook. (He's also well know for some of the best climbing "fiction".) To that I'd add the more basic Betty and the Silver Spider, a comic-book format guide to the basics of gym/sport climbing, hitting on training and basic safety/etiquette/jargon. It's by Craig Leubben (who co-wrote Advanced Rock Climbing with Long), a prolific climber, writer (inventor of the big-bro offwidth-crack protection!) currently a climbing guide and instructor in CO.

Though as Amanda mentioned, it's a good idea to supplement reading with practical experience. (Or in Korea, not a bad idea to supplement practical experience-- if you're being taught in Korean or broken English-- with good reading!)

I think most experienced people on KOTR would be happy to show beginners what we know-- some things I'd like to review and practice myself, as I do so little multipitch, trad and aid these days!

[Naomi]

I really like "The Self-Coached Climber" as an instructional book too. It actually comes with a disc you can play on a pc or DVD player and so watch people doing what the books talks about. It's not uber-technical, but offers a lot of useful info on training and improvement for ALL LEVELS of climbers (unlike most "training books which seem to assume everyone climbs 5.11 and above), and even training ideas that require no climbing gym, rock or gear. It is quite funny, practical and though not so focussed on "leading" is useful for learning about leading.

[ricardo]

i'll bring my FOTH this weekend for your perusal, but live personal demonstration from competant climbers is most effective.

[avenue]

And can we expect some live, personal Rick demonstration this weekend?!?! :becky:

i'll bring my FOTH this weekend for your perusal, but live personal demonstration from competant climbers is most effective.

[ricardo]

but of course!
for your amusement this weekend, i will be demonstrating the pain threshold of an out of shape 'climber' with a pinched nerve trying to impress someone!! don't miss out...should be a hoot!!

[rosscanup]

I can't believe I'm going to miss it...

[skinsk]

Here's a really good article about safe anchors"

You'll want to bring a lot of backup after reading it!

http://www.uoregon.edu/~opp/climbing/topics/anchors.html