My first lead fall...a REAL one!

[avenue]

So Les and I were at the Danggogae wall tonight, and I had my first big lead fall. I was right at the top, with only the perma-draw and the anchor left to clip, but my pump got the best of me, and I fell. I knew I was probably going to fall--my hands were slipping off the less than positive holds, so I felt prepared to tumble. I was making all kinds of noise as I struggled to stay on the wall (Ricky would have been proud!). When I actually fell, I let out this a grunt/scared scream that probably got the attention of everyone in a 1-kilometer radius. I wasn't scared of falling, but the thing that scary-surpised me was that I realized how big of a fall it was while I was falling. I kept seeing more and more wall sail past me. Of course it all happened in a second, but it seemed like I was falling forever. But after I fell, I'm happy to say I wasn't scared or extra nervous or anything. I just hang-dogged for a bit to work the pump out and finished the lead. I'm pretty damn proud of myself!!

I have to thank Les (again) for literally saving my life with the good belay skills. Taking a fall like that made me realize how important a few things are: double backing your harness, double checking your tie-in and knots, and having a trusted, skilled belayer. I'm lucky that all three were doing their job tonight!

[skinsk]

thanks for the story/reminder-- as long as no one suffers more than being tired, hung-over, hungry, cut, scratched, bruised or late, it's a good day. . .kotrers in general are good at double checking each other, etc. . . nicole and others are better than i, for sure, whenn it comes to helmets (and i do wear mine when i feel it's important-- trad and busy crags, maisan. . .)

anyway, glad you enjoyed your falls! peace!

[ricardo]

right on nicole!!!! i've found that falling (while may be frustrating) is simply an exercise in trusting the system. of course the only thing i've found more frustrating than falling is how much easier it is to finish the climb after falling!
:becky:

[shanja]

Goodonya! If you ain't flying you ain't trying. Maybe I'll get the courage up to take a big lead fall now...? Congrats!

[Mandalynn]

Right on Nicole! Way to work the rock. Im feeling like a bit of a slacker, I haven't lead climbed since our day in Hamal Bawi, but you have inspired me!

[Fainthearted Wack]

Good job!

[cykwong]

Well, I could understand. and Now, you won't fear any more.

By the way, if I only got climbing shoes, hardness, and belay device, can I join? (I have no rope nor quick draw)

[Les]

I'm really happy you've managed to twist a scary experience into a happy one, because I've managed to mangle a funny looking topple off the bull's snout that didnt feel too bad at all, into memory that's had me spooked ever since leaving the Bull. That place had some funky energy.... Has anyone ever heard of a skinny guy slipping out of a harness upside down before?

- harnessed tighter than ever

[Les]

Well, I could understand. and Now, you won't fear any more.

By the way, if I only got climbing shoes, hardness, and belay device, can I join? (I have no rope nor quick draw)

Soon this group will have enough rope and gear floating around for another 40new climbers. So long as you've got the personal equipment, everything else is nearly always covered. Hardness alone won't keep you safe, but it's got to count for something, and I'm glad you're as excited as I am to get back out on the rock!

[avenue]

hardness

hmmm :suspiciou i think that means you're a little *too* excited to get back on the rock....:lol: :becky:

[Deuce]

I beg to differ Nic, it just means he has one other option for a no hands rest...but what a painful jam that would turn out to be!!! :becky:

[Mandalynn]

So following in your footsteps, Nicole, I had my own little free fall experience tonight. About 3 meters actually while I was clipping the bolt. Apparently, 3 meters is long enough to scream twice.

[avenue]

So following in your footsteps, Nicole, I had my own little free fall experience tonight. About 3 meters actually while I was clipping the bolt. Apparently, 3 meters is long enough to scream twice.

ASSAH!!!!! :whoo: :high5: Way to go Amanda!! I'm so excited for you! I bought my rope this morning, and it should be here for our Women's Weekend! CAN'T WAIT! Women climbers kick A$$!

[Les]

Just wondering, should we all really be getting this thrilled about each others' falls? Real screams freak the ******* **** out of me.
-still not looking forward to my next one. (fall that is)

[skinsk]

Just wondering, should we all really be getting this thrilled about each others' falls? Real screams freak the ******* **** out of me.
-still not looking forward to my next one. (fall that is)

only safe falls are celebrated (and you didn't even scream on your screamer!) but it's effort and pushing oneself we're "celebrating" . . . getting over that fear of falling and making the move and not wussing and yelling "take". . . there's something to: if you're not falling, you're not trying and we're just saying "good on ya for trying!!"

falling is not "failure" or "bad" but a big part of climbing, and a neccessity for making progress! hense the need for good judgement and a sober belayer;) !

BTW Les, what's the ****** ****?!

[Mandalynn]

I think that its a stepping stone to be able to take a fall when your begining to lead and realize your OK. I've wanted to lead for the past year, but have been too scared of the fall. So in that sense, taking the step should be celebrated, unsafe climbing should not.

[Fainthearted Wack]

I couldn't agree more. Nice fall btw. 3 meters? not too shabby.

[shanja]

Awww c'mon! When you're on the rock, too much excitement is barely enough! Same goes for too much hardness! I wish I had me some of that.
3m of fall, and two screams...maybe that's a new speed measurement..."I was falling at 2metres a scream" ?? Either way, that would scare the bejazus outta myself. You're hard.

[Les]

I guess I didn't realize how soft-core my last comment sounded. Falls certainly aren't the end of the world, but you know what - for some people they have been. Theres a lot more control and certainty in sticking to the rock than in trusting everytime for a clean airy fall. Falls happen, but once in a while I imagine they don't work out quite as nicely as you would have liked them to. I'd hangdog over playing that lottery too often. Pushing past fear to make the clip or drop is exhilarating, and so are functioning ankles/femurs/craniums at 30.
As my friends of spinal tap say, its such a fine line between stupid and brilliant. And for a guy in constant threat of falling off on the wrong side, I seem to be sounding like my mother. How the **** did that happen?!!! ****.

I'll see you out there!

[Les]

hahaha havent heard my mom drop language like that in a while, on second thought. Not since I told her I'd be moving to South Korea.

[Mandalynn]

OK maybe it was only 2 meters. But long enough to realize I wasn't stopping as soon as I thought I would.

But point well taken on reaching for the last bolt, last anchor, last whatever. Thank god for the good knot, equipment and belayer. Off to the shop tommorrow to get a helmet. I think its time.

[skinsk]

check out the selection of helmets from gearx-- rick's putting in an order! (of course i had to try on every model in every color. . .:D )

[HALO]

that's great an interesting experience
Good job!

[Justin]

wow... thats pretty much the reason Ive stuck to bouldering. Im wicked feaful of the heights. However, I got plans on getting out real soon.

[avenue]

wow... thats pretty much the reason Ive stuck to bouldering. Im wicked feaful of the heights. However, I got plans on getting out real soon.

omg...he IS alive! i was worried! when do we get to saddle you up?

[Justin]

There is a ultimate thing in Ulsan next week (that you should go to)... after that Im ready to go.