new anchors

[freesolo]

I am in the process of replacing the "death triangle" anchors with chains at Insu and Ganhyeon. Anyone who wants to contribute some cash for the hardware or some time humping the hardware up to Insu would be appreciated.

Also, if you can take the time to talk to the local Korean climbers and tell them how to use "two chain" anchors and why they are safer.

Thanks.

[Eric]

Welcome to the site, freesolo!

That's a great idea! How far along are you? Do you have/use a drill and how many bolts/hangers are you looking at?

[supertopoz]

Hi this is supertopoz


I was a garhnyoen last week end and much apreiciated the new hangers

I have one suggestion, the chains are a great idea, and they would be even greater if they were a little darker. You know so that once they have all been replaced there aren't 30 shiney anchors across the crag, may be a little car paint would do the trick, just a suggestion.

I spoke to one korean who had resvervations about malions, you know the screw chain links. But they are used in europe, so I recon no worries. Any thing is better than the triangles.

Take note.


CHEAK AND DOUBLE CHAEAK THE WIRE UNDER THE HOOK HANGER BEFORE YOU LOAD IT. THERE IS OFTEN SUBSTANTIAL FRAYING OF THE CABLE HIDEN FROM VIEW.

[freesolo]

Hey, tried to find darker chain but no luck. if you know of a hardware store that has some, let me know. will paint as last resort. the shininess should fade a little as the chains weather. not so obvious on insubong. i;ve lock-tited the lap links so they should stay shut for long time. and they are way stronger than frayed cable.

[dehaan]

Yup. Was at Ganhyeon a few weeks ago.
Those hangars are just about the ugliest thing
I have ever seen on a wall, including my Kiwi
climbing partner. I have seen towtrucks with
less substantial chains.
They are probably great for artificial structures,
but come on.
I would be pissed if you did that to
a Canadian wall.

Tread lightly friends.

[freesolo]

i agree 100%. But when I put up two chains with no hooks, the Koreans freaked out, cause they dont understand they have to use two of their own draws for a toprope anchor and that the last person raps the route. if you can find a way to tell them, be my guest.

so your options are: a death triangle with frayed cable or big hooks. your life, your choice.

[freesolo]

also, i'm doing this out of my own pocket so my choices of hardware are limited.

[antepater]

Don't listen to the pundits! You can't please everyone even half the time. I am thankful for the chains!!! The concept of rapping off routes does seem to puzzle the Korean climbers. They don't use cordalette too much either.
Thank you for your ime and effort, I'm sure when I get back up ther I will appreciate it.

[freesolo]

My work is done, or at least half done.

For whatever reason, perhaps because my anchors were a good idea or because the locals were pissed off that a westie was changing out anchors at the local crag, there are now many chain anchors at ganhyeon.

this past weekend was crag maintenance day and the locals put up chain anchors and rebuilt the viewing platform.

on a very very negative note, some wingnut with a crowbar levered off a minivan size flake right in the middle of the crag while there were about 3 dozen people milling about.

it luckily did not take out the bridge or hurt anyone!!!!!

i disagree with the materials used in the new anchors but the system is way better than frayed wire.

so on to insu-bong for the second half of my anchor revolution.

[Eric]

Great work, Freesolo! Looks like the revolution is taking off.

I can NOT believe the crowbar incident!! That's scary as hell. What were they trying to do, anyway? Fortunately noone what hurt. Out of curiosity, which route(s) did it affect?