Kanhyun, Sarakson, Hwacheon and Bukhansan

[Göran]

I have been climbing now for about teen days with Sonia. I would like to write something about. The trip was easy and hard!

I have been climbing six days out of eleven days and all of them except one on trad. gear. Three of the climbing routes has been multi-pitches between four and six pitches (Some short actually). On the other hand we got down in the dark in half of the times. And Sonia also had use of her helmet!!! But on the back side it has been a lot of transportation on train and buses. Even carry the heavy backpack up and down.

And I have to say the easy part was to travel around, as Sonia know the country far more better then I. And seem to enjoy to plan where to go and then. And seem to like maps and tourist information. I think I have had quit a lot of luck for this part of my trip. To confess, I hardly know where I have been climbing these days in S Korea...

Where did this trips start? Not in Korea. It started in Stockholm and Sweden. My original plan was to go to China and Thailand for climbing. But you know. A lot of Swedish people have already been in China. I was looking for webpages about climbing. KTR showed up then I googled. It was a good and nice looking website. Thanks, Eric! During the spring I created a account. The day after I got a message that welcome me to Korea from Sonia. First I got happy that someone notice that I created an account. But soon I was thinking: who is she? As I am working in emergency psychiatry in Stockholm, I have met of strange/ odd people during my jobb... Should I still go to Korea... :-) I looked at the amount of posts she had done I got a bit more calm...

I meet Sonia on Friday the 29th. On Saturday we took of for Kanhyun. We were going to meet Mary and her mother Deb. And we also had a Swedish woman called Hanna, which none of us knew. We picked her up a few minutes before we left the hostel in Seoul.

Saturday evening we were climbing a "multi-pitch" (of three pitches and totally 60 meter) something got down very fast. I was the only one wearng a helmet (Scared about other climbers stories about falling backward and smaching the head against the climbing wall). A climber party had dropped a figure of eight. As I went up I met them halfway up. As I was belaying I did not think so much of what they was doing. They would like to do something with the Gri-gri. Education? Or...I did not understand what, as they had rappelled half the way of the route on the single rope already... Later, I notice they was trying to use the HMS knot, I started to understand: They got some problem to get themself down as they only had one rapel device. I helped them with the HMS knot, so they could get down the last 25 meters.

Mary got up. And Sonia climbed up with a head lamp. I did the last pitch in the dark. First time...

After the climbing there where dinner. Not prepared to bringing food... We had something to eat. To little to eat... To little for me. I went to bed hungry! And people outside our place sound to be happy. To happy! They was singing for many hours. It got late! And after the songs, the dogs started barking to a different tune. And after that Sonia got up and it was morning...

To be continue...

[skinsk]

Göran might have been a little nervous day one. . . the only place in Seoul I found easily was the climbing shops-- where I stopped to pick up a helmet. . . after checking every shop and trying each model and color. Leaving in a rush after a stressful week I also forgot my glasses! . . . ended better with a Han River cruise (with flashing lights and pirate theme). One reason I thought Kanhyun was because it was a sure thing. . . and Deb isn't a "hard climber". . . still we managed to get off the multi-pitch in the dark. . . which was to be good practise! Sunday was a some more climbing at Kanhyun, then a late-day Korean feast. Mary shuttled Göran, Hanna and I at the bus stop and we all headed to Sokcho that night, meeting up at the sauna. We rented a "gethering room". . . and enjoyed the jjimjilbang amenities like restaurants and massage machines. . . not so crowded! And quieter than our Kanhyun minbak! Göran? Mary? I'll leave Monday (and Tuesday) for one of y'all?!

(Don't worry readers, it does get more interesting! and epic)

[Göran]

Monday! Arrived to Seroksan national park. We went to a Bisandae shelter. Put our gear there and did some preparations for the next climbing day. I thought... Sonia and Mary was thinking about another route... On Ulsambawi! As I was a guest, my requirements was quit low - I would like only to climb!

On Tuesday, it took a while to get to the start of the route. Perhaps 60 min. The route was to be a 5.10 in the climbing book. Traditional protected route. Mary started... And asked soon, if anyone else would like to have a try... If I have been with - old - friends... If I not have been climbing with two women... I might have done otherwise... But why not make a try... I have at least make a fall before I say it will be to difficult for me...

I happened to be a flare offwidth crack. It was easy to get half of my body: Left arm and left leg. On the postive side of this was that the friction was really good! You could even feel it: the pain, then you rub off your skin. On your left arm and leg. And soon I put in friend number three... And so I only got number four left!

I squeezed my body in the crack. Took out my old "friend" number four and put a bit higher up. Moved upp and squeeze once more. Move the piece... And my last protection got more and more far away from me. I have to confess I did not the first pitch free. After a while I got to the first belay station. I was a good feelling to watching the other two climbing. And it was even a better felling of leaving the next pitch to Mary. My mouth was super dry. I am not used to those types of cracks but I had to work on it as it was a french 6b... It was easy to agree it was a bit harder then what it was in the book.

Mary did parts of the second pitch. My turn again. It took time to climb the pitches. A first man fall. A diffucuties with route finding. A slow first man. But I had a feelling of that we should be up soon. Or at least before the moon... No, after several pitches it went dark (it could have been pitch number 4). Second time on this trip. But we were happy to have headlamps even this time. Mary took care about the rappelling in the dark as I was tired.

There were some KTR persons in the area also but I hope someone else will write about that... Sonia? Mary? Heather? or... Forgot the last name...

On the first rappel I forgot my backpack. I was really lucky that Sonia was more fit then I. She got it down. Another rappel. On other last rappel Mary dropped her ATC. So I gave her mine as I had two - No that was actually a lie. Sorry Mary! I used the HMS instead. As Sonia went down she found the ATC and everybody was happy and very hungry!!

Some hours later we where outside the national park entrance. Mary's mother was not upset or worried. This was not the first time Mary got back later then she had said earlier. At teen o'clock - or a bit later - We where all at the parking lot at a hotel and was eating everything that Mary and Deb had in their car. Of food... :-)

We were all a bit surprised that Hanna was still around. She - a Swedish girl - was going back to Seoul this day. But apparently no... I fear that she was going to run out of money. And I was trying to say to myself, that is not my problem... She walked out of this story.

On Wednesday, I have no good memories. To tired... Wait, I might be this day some Korean climbers saw Sonias climbing gears: Hex's... They had a good laught! And the little girl that said to me that do not use the soap in the little stream. "Do not use..." Those enviromentalist... I guess that the parent have a hard time at home, as the kid will learn more in school....

To be continue...

[skinsk]

Wed (I was on vacation so not keeping track) was I believe a rest day after rapping mid-Ulsanbawi in the dark. As the restaurants in and around the park close at 8, wee attacked Mary’s cooler in the parking lot. . . Göran and I didn’t get back to the shelter until almost midnight. I had just been joking that we were “practicing” being benighted when we were climbing late at Kanhyon a couple days before.

If Göran is “da man” for leading (or is it aiding?) us up four pitches (including the 5.11 offwidth crack) before we bailed, then Craig (funny Göran remembers all 3 women’s names, but not “Craig” as in crag?!) is “da other man” for geetting his wife to the top and down before dark and avoiding the 5.11 offwidth!! OK, I may have been partly responsible for the 5.11 as it was actually the only route I had ever finished (e, aided) there. . . albeit 8 years ago and I'd been sandbagged and I really didn't think 5.11. . . and then Mary also kinda encouraged it. . . but kudos to G for finishing it (and all the other pitches!!). And good and Mary and me, too:) At least we were all competent and experienced enough to enjoy the adventure and get down safely. And thanks to C and H who waited past dark until we were one rap from the ground. . . and who called Mary’s mom for us. . . I would definitely not hesitate to climb with any of these folks again! Great attitude. . . and class acts. . . I have been benighted with many amazing climbers and these guys were as good as any:)

So Wed Göran and I took it easy. . . I chatted up the guys at the shelter who had put up some of the nearby routes. . . I was talking to Won Jeong-min, the Kolon Climbing Shool director, showing him my rack, asking about the route we planned to try the next day (Thurs). That’s when he said “Hexentrics”?- in about 7 syllables and burst out laughing. So hard even I had to laugh (OK, when I lived in Moab in ‘96 I used one as a door-knocker. . . but they can be fun to place and solid!!. . . right Jake?!! David??!! are you still around?! ) Then Göran came over and laughed (OK, anyone need a door-knocker. . . or gear shift. . . I’ll trade a classic collector’s item for say one of the new Omega Pacifics. . . and I’ll even let you use my discount to buy it for me. . . ?!). . .

So Wed was kinda forgetable. . . and to top it off after washing and putting on dry clothes I slipped trying to take a timed photo (the one under “fun photos” where my *** looks huge) with G and I hanging out with Craig and Heather by the river. I guess it would have been funnier if the 3 stooges hadn't done it so much.

We had left Mary to have some good Mom-daughter time (Moms coming to visit Korea rock!) and hopefully lose the crazy Swedish woman.

After out good rest day we packed for an early AM departure the next day for the General. We had scouted the route, A2O 5.10a when we had first arrived. OK, someone elses turn. . . can we get a comment from Mary, Craig, Heather, Deb? or even if anyone is even reading this?!