New Crag

[antepater]

I am writing this as an open invitation to anyone interested in helping to develop a new climbing area near Daegu. I have had some response from a couple of people so far. In brief this is what it will entail.

1. Clearing brush.
2. Some money from the total number of voluteers for bolts, drill rental bit n pieces etc.
3. Time! several weekends
4. Clear understanding of bolting physics and at least a modicum of climbing savy!

I have discover a cliff of approximately 100 meters in hieght and length and a possible route selection of 50+.
I will collect names, e-mail adds, also location would be nice just to know where everyone is coming from. The expected date to begin the project is the End of August. If your interested or have an opinion about the above mention project please post here or give me a PM. Peace Tomas

p.s anyone who has attempted to deal with the locals in such a matter their insight would be helpful since my Korean is shockingly limited, I don't intend to piss anyone off or disrespect someones land or space without there knowledge and blessing.

[Eric]

I have one question: Whose land is it? I would hate to mess up someone's property or invest a lot of time and/or money into the project only for it to be taken away because we made somebody angry...

If the landowners (if there are landowners) are cool with it then i would love to help!

What kind of rock is it anyway?

later
eric

[antepater]

I am working on that particular information at the moment. The rock type appears to be metamophosed sedimetary similar to Yeon Gyeon. The Bluff abutts a small farm and I need to speak with the farmer to see if the land is owned or if access would be the issue. I don't want to invest time just to piss someone off. The cliff is massive looks possible to set up a several multi pitch routes, say 3 pitches??? But definitley a ton of nice long 30 meter routes.
I have been ill since I started trying to get this moster off the ground. I get back from vaction August 3rd and will post some information by August 10th. I will keep anyone posted who replies to this posting and start building a concesus. The more climbers the better especially in setting harder routes.
Cool I'll put you down on the list we are up to 4 warm bodies so far. Peace The Tomas

[supertopoz]

Well sounds all well and good.

Lets develope a new climbing area, and you guys and pay for the bolts.

Now listen up, what are we talking about here retro bolting a crag by abseiling down and drilling bolts every three feet so that we feel safe on a possible new line.

It is of my simple opinion, first that all new assents that involve changing the rock forever should be attempted from ground up.

If you don't have the balls to do it this way then leave it to some one who does. As for putting up fifty new routes over a few weekends, give it a rest.

Koreans have little or no ethics when is comes to new crags they slam in bolts every three feet even next to decent crags that will take cams and stoppers.

Don't follow suit there is a whole climbing comunity out side of Korea and many people out there have the balls to build new routes without retro bolting.

There is to much of wilderness developement in this country as it is, I have been here long enough to see some beutiful vallyes distroyed forever by tunneling and new highways. You retro bolting of a crag is just the same, and for what so a few people can climb there for a short time while your in korea. If it has not been bolted already it is because no one is interested in climbing there. And the likely case is no one will be interested in climbing there after the first burst of enthusiasm. So all that hard work and distruction, for for just few weeks.
fun.

This is of just one opinion, and if you think about what I have said then great. If you ignore what I have said then that too is great. Of course it is not my business and really it will have no impact on me, but it might impact the local farm and local residence, but most of all local wildlife.

[antepater]

Thank You for the in put Supertopoz. Nice sight by the way. I'm not a new bee and have been a round awhile. I'll take note.
Just to let you know I wasn't planing on rapping down anything to drill bolts, nor putting up fifty routes. Just setting some belay anchors and maybe a route for some others.
You really should ask questions before you start yelling at people, which I am still in the process of figuring.
All opinion do help to recognize potential problems. I will have a meeting with anyone interested to discuss the plans and exam the area. Thanks Tomas

[RussT]

Now, now children!
As a matter of fact supertopoz, you sounded like a real jackass in your reply. I bet you are a great climber,...probably much better than myself,...but your mouth has gotten the better of you.
Hey Tom,...hope you're feeling better now.
You and I talked about this before, and I think Ty would be game, but we need more. our boys at the gym...Chae, Gwon, and even the little screamer may be good resources for info on land issues. I have their phone numbers.
let me know.
Todd

[Eric]

RussT,

I think supertopoz apologized just in a different thread located here (http://www.koreaontherocks.com/showtopic.php?topic_id=2#261)

He said You are right I did yell a bit.

sorry, but it is a sensitive issue with me the way this poor wild country is being bulldozed


I hope this clears up any confusion!

-eric

[RussT]

That's cool.
Thanks for clearing the air Eric. My bad,... I didn't see the sorries. Could be a great idea, done the right way and with solid recources. I'm going to be short on time, I have a business venture on the go, not to mention I'm way out of shape since last year but I know some people that could be of great benifit to a project like this. They're all very well known in the Korean climbing community and of very solid stature. We could always use another haunt and I think it would be great experience and a great chance to give back.
Cheers,
T

[Eric]

So Antepater, any news on the crag? Did you find out any info about whose land it is?

Later
eric
(ps. hows the stomach these days?)

[antepater]

HI Eric,
Just rented a car for a few months so I can get around better. Right now I have the **** schedual from hell during the summer break but only two weeks left of it. I am mobil so will be hitting the rock much much more. starting to get around to the local craig ASAP now that it doesn't take me 1 1-2 hours to get there, only 20minutes!!! But I will let you know about that sight I poked around a little and RussT has some numbers that may be useful. Access to the craig could be an issue though not the rock itself.
Stomach is much much better but I am flabby from the lay off, got a full days climb in Thailand that was great.