Jang Gun Bawi - Don't go unless you're a 5.13 climber with $500

[Eric]

checked out jang gun bawi (just north of halmae bawi about 30 minutes) for the first time on saturday. i have known about this place for a while and you didnt have to twist my arm to get me to go... but next time you will.

first of all, there are 2 signs (circa 2002) stating the $500 fine for climbing even though the Korean climbing guide (circa 2004) doesnt mention any of this.

so there's no need to let a few signs stand in the way :whistle: lets "climb"!

ok, so the NEW definition of climb is "look at the 5.13/5.14 routes and wonder what im doing here standing in the rain". the book says there are some 5.11's, somewhere...right...around... Oh NO! the only climbs here i can even attempt are crumblier than a pile of gravel. every step, every hand hold, rock fall.

screw janggun bawi, lets go to halmae bawi!!

so 30 minutes later, in the pouring raining we started pulling hard at HB! the beautiful part about the whole thing is that you can climb dry rock on rainy days at HB.

had a fantastic day!! i recommend HB on the rainy days for sure. no crowds. dry routes. :)

ok, thats my trip report

[skinsk]

Yeah-- I was asking around and every (OK, both) Korean I talked to said the area was closed (not like there would have been much to do). . . I think the area was developed with the hopes of uncovering a 5.14 and wasn't really sanctioned. Of course, most of this was conveyed with no common language. The only part I was sure was that the area was closed to climbing (the Korean climber at the meet and greet was going through my list and put an "X" next to it). Oh well, didn't look like much for me anyway:)

[Eric]

I think the area was developed with the hopes of uncovering a 5.14 and wasn't really sanctioned. what do you mean?

[skinsk]

In 2000 when they bolted it, there were no 5.14s in Korea. Chung-jun had done one in Thailand, but for many Koreans, that wasn't an option. Quite a few people were hoping to put up Korea's first 5.14, and Buan was one of the crags that developed. Now, this is relying on my memory of what I was told many years ago-- when the crag was first bolted and "legal"-- but I was just talking to 2 Korean climbers (including, and I can't think of his name, but the guy who was climbing with Dee at the Meet and Greet) who spoke decent English and I got the impression that there was a land related (not choss related) reason it was closed. He was pretty much "scratch this off your list". . . I was actually asking about Byeong Bawi and Jeonjoe Am, but both guys saw my list and warned me about Janggun Bawi.

BTW, since this crag is closed, does anyone know if Korea has a 5.14?! I am thinking they must, as there are several 5.14 climbers? Anyone? (I guess this could go on a new thread).

[Eric]

interesting...

whats the hardest climb at seonunsan?

[skinsk]

The 13d at Tugu Bawi unless something new has been added (or some key holds broken). Saw Yuji try it. . .

[climbergrrl]

Isn't there a 5.14a at Tugu-bawi? I heard that Sang-won had a project there. I think it's the one that has a small sign that says 'no climbing' below it. I guess that's because it's kind of reserved for Sang-won to have the first ascent. Just remember that, in case any of you get the urge to get out there and send it...:lol: I can't even SEE the holds, much less grip them. :D

Cheers!
Heidi

[Ricky]

A little bird told me...the hardest climb IS in fact at Soksal Bawi. It's called 'Black Shadow'. Probably the very one climbergrrl mentioned. I was curious so I asked around.

[skinsk]

I still cannot find it listed anywhere. I have tried googling every possibility, but the only 5.14s I find in Korea are in Buan (and thus not even "open")-- which is not to say there aren't any at Soksal Bawi (though I'm not sure where they'd've stuck it-- as the crag is pretty much developed end to end!), only that all of my googling has led to naught.

I would be curious as to who put it up, who rated it, and if anyone repeated it and confirmed the rating. . .

Dee-- can you ask Chung-jun or Kyu-bok? They would know for sure.