Climbing Rubber Test

[tjosie]

Have you guys seen this? Looks like those with Evolves are pretty lucky. I've got to say I'm liking my new 5.10 rubber more than the Sportiva rubber I have right now. Can you take climbing into the lab?

http://www.spadout.com/r/climbing-rubber-test/

[choss monkey]

i hardly think the difference from one companies rubber to another is going to make a lick of difference for us mortals. a proper fitting shoe and working on technique will go a lot further. i've tried, but i seriously can't feel a difference in rubber from brand to brand. i can tell a difference from really cold days to hot days, but that's about it.

kudos to evolv for at least pretending to be green though. a little green washing can go a long way. i'm still holding out for some kicks made of hemp, bamboo, and used condoms. now THAT'S green!


i'm sure some tard will read this and go drop some cash to resole their almost new shoes with a "stickier" rubber, only to find they still climb the same grade. we as climbers are far to easy of a target for creative marketing. shame on us for being such consumer whores.

[gt29905]

In my opinion that test was done somewhat poorly. The pressure applied to the rubber was only a few kilos. With a huge discrepancy between the pressure applied in the test and what would occur with a human wearing the rubber on their feet, I don't think it accurately reflects the actual performance of the rubber at all.

On a side note though, I used to think that all the hype around different companie's rubber was just that, hype. Until I had my sportivas resoled with stealth c4, after the original soles wore out, and they have become significantly stickier and work within a wider range of temperatures and also do better on plastic. It's not that I've improved since I was climbing in the original soles either, I'm climbing a number grade below what I was two years ago. So in my opinion, stealth is significantly better than vibram rubber. But, I would never have new shoes shaved and retread just for a small advantage.

[choss monkey]

maybe my inability to tell a difference from one rubber to another is due to the fact that i suck goat balls when it comes to footwork.

it is cool that you posted this for us though. it was entertaining to read. any of you guys remember that chalk test they did a few years back? CHALK COMPROMISES FRICTION!!! the results were beyond amusing. just because something works in the lab doesn't mean it applies in real world application i guess. too many variables unaccounted for.

[shanja]

By and large I agree with Choss, it's a stickiness difference that few of us have the skill/ sensitivity to ever be aware of....and yet...I hated my Madrock Flash shoes rubber when I 1st bought them (1 year ago). I did so just so I wouldn't be trashing my way more expensive La Sports in the gym. The same bouldering routes I did in the La Sports I suddenly found way gnarlier as my feet kept slippin' off the same holds that I'd been using fine before. Bad rubber!? Well, maybe I dunno... Maybe it was a slightly looser fit, stiffer last or just unfamiliarity with the shoe. All equally probable explanations. Still now they Flashes are scuffed up a bit and so on they seem OK. I think it is usually (but Gabe's post contradicts me here - thanks, not!) the case that people imagine they prefer the rubber on the shoes that they climb in (and fit their feet) best/ normally. My feet fit La Sports really well, so I think their "rubber" is best. My mad mate shoves his clod-hoppers into 5.10's and so he swears black and blue by heaven almighty that 5.10 "rubber" is the bomb...etc etc etc The industry has us all conned that it's rubber that makes the climber, not fit. Or that by upgrading your gear your grades will magically rise like a shooting star! Load of poo children. Load of poo.

[choss monkey]

HA! found it. biggest pile ever.

http://www.nicros.com/archive/research_chalk.cfm

[choss monkey]

btw, haven't seen you in a while tjosie, when you going to come out and play again? that roof still needs to go down in seoul.

[tjosie]

I'm by no means good at climbing, and certainly not a professional but I've noticed subtle differences between the rubber on the last two shoes I've had. That doesn't mean I'd buy a shoe based on the rubber, but I've noticed with my new shoes I feel a lot more confident smearing and edging on those tiny grains of quartz. I don't even know if the latter has anything to do with rubber or if its the shape of the shoe. I'll generally (at least for the time being) buy shoes primarily because they fit my feet nicely and are cheap (unfortunately).

I think its hilarious that these guys took the shoes into the lab. Gabe your point about the weight applied to the shoes is too true. It wouldn't have even been enough to push the rubber into the shape its supposed to assume.

That said, I like to talk rubber sometimes. Although I know at the end of the day whether I do a climb or not is going to be about how prepared I am physically and mentally, the rubber is one of the few things that we can all control from the beginning of our climbing experience. Thanks for the comments guys. What do you think they should research next? The send enhancing powers of prana shirts?

[tjosie]

btw, haven't seen you in a while tjosie, when you going to come out and play again? that roof still needs to go down in seoul.

I don't know man. Some of us are planning on hitting the RBs next weekend. Would look like to play guide? Or are you guys still going to Sokcho every weekend?

[choss monkey]

why would we go to sokcho? i'd probably be down for the RB's

[bhylenski]

I say we put the rubber to the test...A weekend in Daejeon...size 46 must be included in the test!

Saturday, trad climbing in the morning on conglomerate multipitches, while eating an all vegan lunch prior to an afternoon filled with multipitch slab granite, while experiencing the typical temperature change in the afternoon...while wearing Rubber A, of course.

Sat. night grab a few beers, find a norebang, play a bit of gostop, raid the local fried chicken shop at 2am...then head to a late night hof for some fun with the locals. Grab a few hours of shut eye, then head out to the local sport crag... pull hard all day on Algawlbawi like granite while wearing Rubber B with a KOTR newbie belaying you on lead with a Korean hiker yelling "Fighting" from the trailhead.

RESULTS GUARANTEED!

Finally, we can call it a weekend and realize there are way too many factors in determing the best sensation, friction, tactile response and overall pleasure provided to us by our "rubbers!"

[tjosie]

I'm in!