Looking to unload some gear?

[peaches]

Hey guys...so I only have 3 months left here, and as I am very tired of being a climbing freeloader, I am looking to score a cheap rope and a rack of quick draws. Something to keep me going at least till I leave...anyone have some decent used equipment you're no longer using, or know where I can get it? Don't mind used (as long as you can assure me it's safe!)...just want cheap and in good condition! Cheers in Advance!! Tiffany

[Moose]

Tiffany, do you really feel safe buying a used rope? How much are you looking to spend? Where in Korea are you now? I have some extra draws I can consider selling, how much do you want to give for them? I have a set of five that I paid about $12 each for, my cell is 010 5778 2252 Give me a ring, lets climb together.
Joshua

[peaches]

Hey Moose...yeah, I'm probably just going to order a rope online...I'm definitely interested in the draws, though...let's talk! When's a good time to call? My number is 011-9690-1840...and I'm in Anyang (Seoul).

[peaches]

Holy cow...I mean, holy Moose! What are the odds? I just checked out your description thingy and see that you're living in Pyeongchon...me too! Crazy stuff!

[Moose]

i'm actually only working here at the moment, i don't have a place until mid-sept. so for now i'm commuting everyday from Budang. lets meet today at the gym or somewhere and discuss some climbing sometime soon if you want...i'll call you when i'm off at 16:00

[Erin]

Along that note can anyone give us beta on what type of rope to buy, how long, etc?

[Moose]

of course; things you should decide/consider: will you be in a lot of wet conditions or out a lot with a high chance of rain?~>if so, then dry treated rope will be better, but more expensive. 60 metre ropes seem to be the standard now but sometimes you'll still find 50 metre ropes. the shorter rope will of course be less expensive. next, consider size: a lot of heavy use i.e. climbing everyweekend and taking a lot of falls, i would get no less than 10.2 mm or for a lot of toproping, 10.5-11.5 if you climb fast and believe the no falling mantra of trad climbers, 10 mm or smaller will be fine but no smaller than 9.5 mm b/c below that and you get into double ropes, which is pretty much reserved for ice climbing, unless you're doing some crazy ropework on a bigwall. names don't matter so much but when you look at ropes, consider UIAA fall rating, the more falls taken, the better. also, %of stretch, as this can soften the blow of a fall~>normally around 5.5%[low end]-8%[a lot of stretch]. thats all i can think of at the moment. you may also want to consider after all of those things, your color choice and whether or not a dual pattern is right for you. changing pattern at the halfway point costs a little more but sometimes its nice to know where the middle of your rope is. if you have questions, just email or ask on here. and don't take me as an expert, this is just the experience i've had so far.

[Eric]

just to add a tiny little bit on to the excellent description by moose. i have experienced a difference in longevity with different brands. for example, my Bluewater rope did well the first season but the 2nd year it became very stiff (even after washing) and now it's hard to use. my other rope is a Beal. i have really enjoyed this rope because, after 3 years, it still feels new and very pliable.

eric
ps. Moose, great rope buying guide!!!

[Erin]

Awesome,

Thanks so much for the beta Moose and Eric!!!

[robb]

Great advice guys. I would also like to add that I have had two edelrid ropes, both have performed great.
If anyone is looking into draws, trango wiregates are 10000 with a medium (sorry don't know exactly) length sling.

[Moose]

about rope brands: i've climbed on a new england rope, it was thick @ 11.2 mm so it was always a bit stiff but i climbed on it for a long time. now i'm using a bluewater, which i really like, it was a little kinky starting out but most things about climbing having some kind of underlying sexual innuendo....

[Erin]

Also curious to know what does a sports rack all include. How many quick draws would you recommend starting out with? 10? How many slings, what length etc?

Sorry this is all new stuff for me...

Erin

[Eric]

erin

i carry 10 draws, 4 short slings, 2 long slings and 2 carabiners for each sling. that has been plenty for any climbing i have done in korea. i actually only ever use the long slings to make ground anchors when i am belaying someone who is heavier than me. 10-12 draws and a couple of slings (with biners) to prevent rope drag on zig-zaggy routes will be fine.

lastly, a big biner and belay device should!

hope that helps :)

eric

[Moose]

Erin, again, as i said before, i'm no expert so use this only as much as you can. 1]there isn't really a 'normal' sport rack, well other than than the common; draws, locking biner, atc [of some sort or fashion]~>ask if you want me to reccomend one], maybe some webbing, slings, chalk bag, and some pple carry a stick clipping device.
Personally, I carry 12 prefab draws [10 @4" and 2 @ 6"], 4 two foot slings with bent and wire gate biners which can be doubled for shorter slings or put out full length as Eric explained for prevention of a zigzag rope [creates ridiculous drag and bad angles for a fall on the rope], two 20 inch slings with one screwgate on each for anchoring myself [mostly on multi-pitch trad] but they work nice for cleaning the top once you're done with a route. ~>the last two slings are attached to my belay loop by a 'peanut' knot. Its also a good idea to carry a thick, sturdy bristle brush to scrub over-chalked holds. For sport, that's about all that comes to mind. feel free to call me if you want to know more:
010 5778 2252

[skinsk]

All good advice. I also like a daisy that I loop through my belay loop. Clip the free end with a locking biner to a gear loop, and you can easily clip into anchors with this. Also useful when cleaning anchors and, well,to clip into a bolt and avoid rope stretch when "resting" on overhangs!