You call that a safe bolt?

[TKells09]

So here i start a new thread with the intentions of raising awareness of certain areas in Korea where the bolts and equipment just might not be up to par with KOTRers safety record. Here I invite anyone and everyone to post pictures of some of the shady/dangerous/unsafe equipment he/she has found in his/her travels throughout Korea. This is not a bashing session but rather a reminder to double check not only YOUR equipment but the equipment on the wall you will use BEFORE clipping/tying in. I know i personally have had rusty bolts break on me and it's a pretty scary experience.

After a couple recomendations to post this on the site i present to you an excerpt from Masian Opera House. You can see the rock is completely undercut and it is highly doubtful it would catch a good fall, however it is drilled nonetheless

[shanja]

Yeah that looks dodgier than a dody thing to my minds eye...I don't think I'd hang my hat off that...weird because the Opera House crag was developed largely by Jeonju Climing Club, who are almost always very safety conscious and well trained in best bolting practice. This one though...whoah!
Maybe this thread should be in the accidents and injuries section though, as we have similar tales and cautionary pics there. Either way really appreciate the heads up and careful thinking. Post away everyone!

[bhylenski]

Come on now, that bolt looks perfectly fine. And anyone who tried to prove me wrong would surely be finished off by that 50 kilo booby trap following it!

[Les]

I believe I've seen that bolt before. Its on the 10b/c on the right side of the opera house wall? Beautiful climb.

[willpower]

Duh! There's nothing wrong with that bolt at all. The fundamental error is with North American climbing technique.....what happened to "leader doesn't fall?".

The other side of the Atlantic climbers virtually never fall, (the very rare times they do are usually camera shoots). In a recent BMC survey it was discovered nearly 98% of UK climbers had never taken a lead fall, this is part in thanks to the BMC's (British Mountaineering clubs) 'falling is dangerous' program which is assisted by the 'Newtonian science institute'. Other measures extend to indoor gyms where they have taken to banning people from the premesis who are seen falling.

There was a big debate to allow Sharma to climb in the UK after he was seen to 'promote falling' in his acclaimed video 'King Lines'.

Falling isn't good for you, your rope, harness, quickdraws or the bolts.

Dont fall!

Supertopoz (Jason) could probably add some more insight.

[yandy]

98% of anything that comes out of Willpower is pure bullshit and that's a well researched fact.

[willpower]

Spotted falling' were we Andy???

[Cali4nia]

Newsflash: subpar bolts inhabit every crag on the planet. There's a simple solution: spend your money and fix it!

Bolt drills being expensive, many local climbing clubs have one that they share among members. They just need money. At the crags, talk to Korean climbers and find clubs. So far, clubs I've met are happy to accept donations from me for new bolts.

This is a start, and I have more work to do. One of the people who posted here earlier has donated money for ten new anchors--not pocket change. Let's all commit to practice our Korean and get involved with climbers who are fixing this. Be part of the solution!

[choss monkey]

sorry man, but due to the nature of that rock, i don't think you could be too sure about a lot of those bolts, and i've seen that one in the pic 1st hand. it's a safety hazard for sure. that said though, it's still a fun area. and an occasional death is a small price to pay for a nice over hanging crag.

[supertopoz]

It's true, us brits don't fall.

We also don't bolt much either.

"If you can't trad lead it, leave it for the generation which can."

I once talked to Tom Frost, a well known old school of America.
He told me, in his whole life time he had fallen twice.

Me too, I have fallen three times, on the lead.
Giggles wick
Hack Dam.
Washington column.

Some say, "If you not falling you not trying."
I say if you are not falling it's because you can down climb well, and are well aware of the possibility or broken limbs, and death, plus in Korea an awareness that your last bolt might be shiny on the outside, but the inside has 5mm of bolt shaft left, and 20-30 years of rust to hold you.

Ladies and Gentlemen. Remember this, off the first bolt three things in a fall are highly likely.

1: Hit the ground.
2: If your partner is using a GriGri, a bent, or snapped first bolt. (possible with a tube belay device too.
3: Far enough up then, even the binners on your draw can be snapped.

Be careful out there, and avoid falling.

[shanja]

I agree with Alec, rather than just whinge-ing like a lot of pommy-gits we should be a part-taking in the fixing/ re-bolting thing too. In fact we have! When I came back from Oz Jan/Feb 2008 KOTRers had en-richened me to buy lots of bolts and anchors sets (stainless steel, 10mm x 75mm fixe speacial climbing bolts, hangers and 2 bolt anchor chains with in built rap-rings). I actually used a lot of my time one weekend to help replkace bolts (at Yongseo Pokpo and other cool crags). The remaining bolts were entrusted to various climbing clubs as no-one at the time on KOTR had the training/ equipment to re-bolt; nor the permission). Frankly I think it was a stirling effort all around and the donations were welcomed. I'm a bit narked though at people who continue to TR or rap of all but worn through rings/ anchor clips...even after I have put in new steel leaver-biners (Ganhyeon people know what I'm talking about!). And there is never an excuse to set up death triangles - sorry 승빈, although I agree the (ex) JCC folk ARE super safe cool climbers, the people who bolt and anchor routes have to remember that others will use the route, and others will TR/ hang-dog at times. Just because they personally don't TR isn't a reason to build an anchor incapable of safely accomodating people who do/ might in the future. One fatality and the whole area could be closed to everyone.
Will mate you know the word up yo wo homie thang.