Who is teaching belaying?

[antepater]

I'm not sure about others but the ethics and skill, especially with understanding the physics of falling and belaying in Korea has been shocking. How do others feel about what they have seen out on the rock.

[Eric]

I have been shocked a number of times, too. Sometimes what I see scares me.

Basically what it has boiled down to for me is to be aware of who is around me. For example, I really dislike going to Insubong and doing the multi-pitch climbs because I don't know, and can't see, who is above me and what they are doing. I try to stick to places where I will be minimally affected by other climbers.

In all fairness, I have climbed with Koreans who take just as many safety precautions as I do. But trust is so important when climbing that it's very difficult for me to climb with "just anyone".

I don't know what to do when I see folks doing something that looks sketch. Do you break social rules and tell the older guy he's not being safe or do you trust that he knows what he is doing? Tough call! I usually error on the socially safe side.

Sometimes I wonder if I am being overly cautious or too redundant. But that thought usually vanishes when I am on the sharp end!

-eric

[antepater]

I am glad to hear there are some Koreans that have it together. As long as there are a few then eventually things will get better i'm sure of it. The country is still in it's nascence regarding climbing. There are some fantastic climbers here as well.
I for one appreciate local climbing knowledge it has helped me out tremendously.

[antepater]

Oh yeah almost forgot. I agree, it is better to errr on the side of social custom but I must say it is very difficult when I think that person could die because there is too much Korean social culture in their climing ethos.
They need to seperate the two if they plan to climb abroad in the greater climbing community outside Korean and for their own safety.

[Eric]

We can also help those who plan on climbing abroad with learning proper climbing calls in English or other languages if appropriate. A lot of Korean climbers travel to Thailand, the Himalayas, Australia, and North America for climbing excursions.

-eric

[supertopoz]

I have been here four years, and it is getting worse. Some times you have to ignore the culture of not saying anything to an older man. Be kind polite and light hearted, then give them space to change. I can't lead to my full potential with some idiot on the other end of the rope. And some of those idiots are my best friends. But got to keep trying, otherwise no one will learn. Check really closely when someone want's to belay you with a Gri Gri, those things don't come with instructions in Korean, and are deadly in untrained hands.

Check out Petzls homepage for diagrams to show you korean friends.

[antepater]

I just like to commiserate but I have a new tale of woe for you saftey conscious climbers.

Insubong was well protected with some new bolts, some rusted bolts and somethings that I think used to be bolts. But there is enough things to clip and with a wee bit of gear nothing to really sweat over.
I just replaced the ADT with some new webing or used my own cordellete. Koreans definitley like climbing with a devil may care attitude but with a low crowd that place was great. The group climbing above me did drop a camelot from 40 meters and almost took out the belayer.
The Koreans definitely out climbed me but man it was a miracle some didn't die right there in front of me. Two of the anchores they just used had old and torn slings!!

[supertopoz]

You are right I did yell a bit.

sorry, but it is a sensitive issue with me the way this poor wild country is being bulldozed

[antepater]

Hey cool beans. I would rather have input then not, the only way to learn. They do seem to have gone a bit crazy on the development with out much forsight. Seems I've seen a lot of cart before the horse mentality going on and not a lot of planing? Who knows. I would like to state for the record I agree with trad climbing it's what I was raised on, but I don't mind bolts on run out face or belay anchors, Especially SANDSTONE!!!. ( that was my red rocks plug). I definitley do not have the balls to trad that stuff. Peace.