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View Full Version : anchors away!


skinsk
05-09-2008, 10:42 PM
So I went to Wonhyosan-- nice rock, really, lots of potential-- but then I got to the anchor (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/1oldanchor.jpg). . . WTF:eek8: I :pray: and rapped down (lowering off the corroded thingy didn't seem a good idea!). . .

I decided to go back and make some changes (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/1newanchors-unburied.JPG). It took a little gardening and rooting through my trunk for some chains, but LOOK! Note in the "before" I already removed about an inch of mud before taking the photo.

skinsk
05-11-2008, 08:43 PM
This one (http://sonia.jju.googlepages.com/2old.JPG) I couldn't get off, though it was clearly fraying on the wires and rusting on the loop! So I backed it up with some webbing, a sturdy tree and a "leaver biner" (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/2oldbackedup.JPG)

skinsk
05-11-2008, 08:55 PM
This "anchor (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/3old.JPG)", well, was more like two bolts and a cruddy piece of webbing hanging from one, so that you could only clip into the right one!

Now, while I still wish I had bigger loops or clips for the end, at least there's something (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/3new.JPG) to rap from and/or clip into!

skinsk
05-11-2008, 09:08 PM
for the 4th and final contestant, I chose this beauty (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/4oldb.JPG). I was able to rip out the frayed wires with my hands. . . and while I cut the webbing, it was so frayed in parts I might have been able to rip it too! All I had left was webbing and cord, so the webbing has two separate failure points, while the cord is a triangle back-up (http://Sonia.JJU.googlepages.com/4new.JPG).

Still, I think it's a vast improvement that makes this area once again safely climbable! The other anchors didn't seem quite as bad, but if you go to Wonhyosan, you still might want to bring a long sling or some more replacement parts to continue this project. Big hooks or clips for my chains would be nice:)

Denny
05-13-2008, 09:12 PM
As an extreme beginner, I appreciate the work you do to make these places safer for "rookies" like me. Thanks!

rosscanup
05-14-2008, 11:42 AM
No kidding. We were at Yongseo Pokpo for a few hours this weekend and as crappy as those anchors were these make them look bulletproof.

skinsk
05-14-2008, 04:11 PM
and as crappy as those anchors were these make them look bulletproof.

No kidding-- that's exactly what went through my head when I saw them. . . and had to rap on one!! or get down somehow-- that seeming the best option. . . i was going to donate my anchors to Yongseo in addition to what Jake got. . . but after climbing here, and knowing how much a bad accident sucks, I just had to return and get rid of at least the serious accident-waiting-to happen stuff! Besides, I wanted to put it in my book, but in good conscience could not send anyone up a route to, well, those!