jsp1001
04-24-2008, 10:13 PM
Hi friends,
I just wanted to share another highlight of my climbing experience in Korea. Today, after much planning and daydreaming, Yoonjoo, Matthias (a hiking regular) and I finally got out to do an actual trad ridge climbing trip. I used a Korean book called "Ridge Climbing Guide" to Korea and headed up to the Yongammun Gate in Bukhansan. The route goes from this gate straight up to Mangyeongdae, before descending to Wee-Mun, which is the base of the highest peak, Baekundae.
This route is rated at 5.7 in the book.
The first couple of pitches are actually 5.6 or below in terms of actual difficulty, but because of exposure, and because we saw this as a learning experience, we used ropes for me to lead, secure myself at the top, and have the second and third follow as I belayed from the top. The next couple of pitches were a bit harder, especially since the bolts which were supposed to be there were either chopped or hammered closed (someone must be on a crusade). Fortunately, I brought plenty of extra slings and I also had some cams to give us the needed protection. It was slow going, and we took a total of seven hours (including the approach from Guppabal and the exit to Uidong) to do just half the full course (one member really wanted to cut the trip short, so we escaped via the hiking trail which goes from Yongammun to Wee-mun). Nevertheless, it was an awesome experience, I learned tons of new things, and my cams and even a chock are now no longer virgin shiny, but wear proudly the scratches of actual trad usage.
Soon I plan to go back to finish the route, and later do other routes of similar rating, all leading up to the base of Baekundae: Wonhyo Ridge, Soomeunbyuk Ridge, and (with more experience) Insu Ridge.
I just thought I would share that. I am so happy : )
Let me know if you want to join sometime.
I just wanted to share another highlight of my climbing experience in Korea. Today, after much planning and daydreaming, Yoonjoo, Matthias (a hiking regular) and I finally got out to do an actual trad ridge climbing trip. I used a Korean book called "Ridge Climbing Guide" to Korea and headed up to the Yongammun Gate in Bukhansan. The route goes from this gate straight up to Mangyeongdae, before descending to Wee-Mun, which is the base of the highest peak, Baekundae.
This route is rated at 5.7 in the book.
The first couple of pitches are actually 5.6 or below in terms of actual difficulty, but because of exposure, and because we saw this as a learning experience, we used ropes for me to lead, secure myself at the top, and have the second and third follow as I belayed from the top. The next couple of pitches were a bit harder, especially since the bolts which were supposed to be there were either chopped or hammered closed (someone must be on a crusade). Fortunately, I brought plenty of extra slings and I also had some cams to give us the needed protection. It was slow going, and we took a total of seven hours (including the approach from Guppabal and the exit to Uidong) to do just half the full course (one member really wanted to cut the trip short, so we escaped via the hiking trail which goes from Yongammun to Wee-mun). Nevertheless, it was an awesome experience, I learned tons of new things, and my cams and even a chock are now no longer virgin shiny, but wear proudly the scratches of actual trad usage.
Soon I plan to go back to finish the route, and later do other routes of similar rating, all leading up to the base of Baekundae: Wonhyo Ridge, Soomeunbyuk Ridge, and (with more experience) Insu Ridge.
I just thought I would share that. I am so happy : )
Let me know if you want to join sometime.