Re-bolting

[Baek Su]

Anyone done it before and/or interested in doing it now. There are many routes in this country in need of some work. This is an easy(and cheap) way to give back a little.

[freesolo]

i;ve replaced about 25 anchors at ganhyeon and insubong and beefed up a bunch more.

the bolts are normally pretty good, it's the anchors that are pathetic. if you want to get together this summer and redo insubong or dobongsan, i have the wrenches and know where to get the chains and such.

let me know. paul

[Baek Su]

I don't want to change the anchors, I know they aren't safe but, the Koreans don't like them. I just wanted to change the bad bolts and hangers. I wanted to do Maisan and Munsubong because they suck hard! But I could make it to soeul sometimes

[supertopoz]

Check out the info from and ASCA

http://www.safeclimbing.com/help.htm

There you will find all info you need.

If you are doing some work, say on munsosan, they get a little note typed up in korea to explain what you are doing. That way the locals don't get pissed at you.

Removal and replace would better than chopping and rebolting.

We all have seen the death triangle, chain and malions would be great.

All new bolts and hangers would look great in stainless steal that way we can all enjoy your handy work 50 years from now.

It would be great it you focused on the first Bolt of each climb and the anchors. That way funds go much further.

Might be best not to do too much work on a Sunday, as you will be distracted by a consant stream of stares and questions. The note would help.

Please don't do the classic korean trick of unbolting the old hanger and srewing in a new stainless bolt and hanger, leaving the 20 year old rusty expansion part in the rock. It looks nice but is deadly.

Stainless expansion bolts are not easy to come by. Peztl are the best, but hardware store ones are, better than the rusty **** that is in there now.

As for Hangers, you could write to trango and get a little bit of gift. This is where my frustration comes in. I want to rebolt a place called hack dam. It is used by PUSAN, Ulsan, Phohang and Deagu climbers, but no one is willing to take the step and cough up the funds or the time. I just keep on at them. The same with garnyoung. I went on and on at Mun Mak and Wonju climbers about up grading the belays there. Then oneday a Mun mak climber told me some crazy waygok had been at it. From that day on they got their act together and did some up grading.

I think I might just do the same at Hak Dam. Get a bunch of bolts together and one Sunday pull them out at the crag.

Peace, and love to you.

Take take.

[freesolo]

yea i was probably the waygook who just started replacing the anchors and a couple months later the locals had an anchor day at the crag.

i disagreed with their choide of chains size but they are better than wire circles.

maybe the chains will start catching on in other areas.

[Baek Su]

Yup. The chains rock, but if you don't expect them to be there and you don't have the gear or the know how to use them it could be a bad situation. We only use those or rings in B.C. They rock. But at the same time if you change the bolts or any part of the route the person who put it up has the right to kill ya. That being said, I might buy a drill this week, they seem to be cheap and, my rack should be here soon( Trango flex cams 35000w) so I will be starting a few projects of my own too(hopefully).