Where shall we REPLACE old bolts/ anchors?

[shanja]

As it says in the title, we now have a few bolts (12) and anchor sets (5) that we could use to REPLACE dodgy old fixed pro (not retro-bolt trad routes, nor add bolts, nor make new routes).
Yep, we are back in the ROK and whilst the icy white cloak falls in a lovely thick carpet even as I type this, why not suggest a few rock climbing places, routes or even individual bolts that you feel need replacing? Priority will be given to those who kicked in cash (thanks again!!), but don't be shy to suggest even if you weren't able to contribute. It's all about maximizing our collective beta to increase the safety thing.

[mil-mil]

I know didnt chip in on this but i do have in order in with one of the stores i mentioned to you befor up in jongno o-ga for 5 bolts plus hangers so you can add that to the list of how many we have.

along with that my personel opinion would have to be Yongso Pokpo... for all of you that have climbed there i know you have seen and clipped the scary fully rusted over bolts that either were never drilled in far enough in the first place or have been pulled about an inch out of the wall...

[firepink]

as a southerner i second yongseo pokpo. good climbs, sketchy sketchy hardware.

[skinsk]

I agree Yongseo is a good place to start. I have a set of chains (or 2) and between those and my donation, there are a few anchors (10B corner crack on the upper right!!, and the 11 crack to it's left) that's I'd like to nominate!

When I get back, I'd be happy to talk to the locals about helping with this.

[Goulash]

Ditto... Yongseo Pokpo.

Would you mind pm-ing me your bank details so I can get that money to you? I don't think I'll be up in Seoul for a while to give you the money, so transfer is probably the easiest.

[ricardo]

agreed...Yongseo Pokpo

[shanja]

OK then. As replacing bolts will take time and we hate losing a total weekend to work (however "good" the work be) I'm thinking we could plan on using a long weekend such as:
May 3-5th - Childrens Day
May 10-12th - Buddha's Birthday
June 6-8th - Liberation Day(?)
Of course this will depend on getting the routesetters OK and a bolting guru, which is what we currently lack, but we are working on that issue.
If this weekend is too far off for you keen as mustard types, cool. Anytime we can be ready is good.

[ricardo]

i'll be gone the first 2 weeks of may, but don't let that determine the bolting plans. the last 2 weekends in april i'll be out as well. any other time you can count me in!
i'm guessing the Mokpo crew can rally the routesetters. that sounds like a crazy fun weekend!

say...is there any way the "heavyweight champion of the world" can move this thread from "accidents and injuries" to "climbing chat" or "upcoming trips"??? i fear its current location is a bad omen.

[skinsk]

I'd rather see it done before the spring season! I, for one, would be happy to "give up" a day or two to help rebolt. Basically, how many of us climb more than a token 6 routes on a good day?!?! Replacing the bolts just before the rain sets, well, why not before anything happens?! I know we'll all head to Yongseo pretty soon!

AND has anything on KOTR had such universal agreement? All the more reason to hold an early "meet and bolt" weekend. . . maybe we supply the (post-bolting) beer for any Koreans who show up with their drills. I'll be happy to track down and talk to the first ascentionists!

[mil-mil]

Some of us were climbign at Yongseo last weekend and it was absolutley beautiful so we could do early morning rebolting and then climb after

[shanja]

OK then sweet. Earlier is better, agreed. Just need permission and a bolting dude with a 10mm drill we can bribe with beers and belays etc.

[lkiehn]

Cool, I have no skills or experience whatsoever in this area, but would be glad to come down and help in any way I can!

[skinsk]

Cool, I have no skills or experience whatsoever in this are

actually, you do!! you can belay (patiently!!):p

[mil-mil]

i can pick up the drill bit this weekend in seoul when i head up... drill on the other hand not so sure about.