View Full Version : Need some input here...
Eartaker
10-19-2007, 12:12 AM
I am new to climbing and looking to build a small rack to get me started in sport/trad climbing. I am now looking at some cams and draws. does anyone know anything about the brand Rock Empire? they have a set of 8 cams (Robot, Comet, Durango, and Pulsar) going for $259. I am also looking at Camp Polished Wiregate quickdwaws. What is better... wire gate or strait/bent gate for quick draws? and what should I be looking for in a cal as well.
Remember I am very new and haven't really gotten to hit real rock yet. I live in Suwon, (45 minutes from Osan) and do not know anyone else that climbs.:)
skinsk
10-19-2007, 12:34 AM
Take it easy, take it slowly. . . buy a sport rack first-- that'll get you on 90% of ROK rock.
Learn trad. It's not so easy here! the routes are harder to get to and not so many folks getting out! Follow and practice placing other people's gear. . . a lot will depend on where you climb, and personal preferences (and sadly, for most of us, personal finances!. . . but your rack will last a long time, so don't go cheap!! invest!!). . . when you are ready to lead more trad, you can buy a rack that fits your style and preferences!
that said, I highly recommend the versatile, but expensive omega pacific link cams. . . only two sizes available but they cover a range of sizes. A little heavy (which may be improved in time) but they save time, nerves and cover an amazing range!
Eartaker
10-19-2007, 12:41 AM
yes a sport rack would get me along ways here in the ROK but sadly I will be leaving in Jan and going to Washington where I hope to find some good climbing areas and to join some groups.
skinsk
10-19-2007, 12:52 AM
WA State? cool! got everything there. . . go to Index and do Liberty Bell crack!. . . lots of good sport areas all over that state too. . . and then there's mountaineering. . .
shanja
10-19-2007, 04:06 PM
Eartaker mate, as for wiregate Vs bentgate Vs straightgates etc look at the gear review thread http://www.koreaontherocks.com/forums/t1125-quickdraws.html where we discussed just that issue last month. Rock Empire cams should be fine. They are certified by UIAA (International Climbing Safety Standards) and by the CE (A European Standards Association). Lots of folk like Black Diamond but to be honest, if you are just starting out and a bit tight on cash, all brands work pretty fine, and we all tend to end up with a mix of brands amd models on our racks. 4 cam units (4CU) have better holding power, but 3 cam units (3CU) can be more stable and are a bit lighter. Your skill in placing nat pro is far far more important than the brand. Learn with an experienced trad climber (yes, there are quite a few here on KOTR) and by reading up on the literature (John Long's How to build anchors and How to place protection etc are great simple well informed examples). It's like everything, practice and practice.
Eartaker
10-19-2007, 04:16 PM
cool man thanks. I'm not planning on going climbing without anyone who hasn't gone before, but I know allot of people appreciate it when the new guy has some gear and isn't trying to mooch off everyone lol. I hated it when people would want to borrow my scuba equipment when they were beginning. I will probably order a set of 8 rock empire cams but what ones I wonder..... and should i buy doubles of cretin sizes? also would you have any info on how to use nuts/hexes?
Chickenlegs
10-19-2007, 05:02 PM
If you definitely know where you will be living, check out info for the areas you will be trad climbing. Depending on the areas and rock, you could possibly need many cams in one certain size, not a huge variety. My husband and I bought our first set of cams last winter, but since we aren't climbing in one specific area, we have a wide variety and doubled up in some of the mid-range sizes.
Eartaker
10-19-2007, 06:41 PM
thank for that... ill check out some climbers near there.... I would love to go climbing with some of the people here but again I don't know anyone personally. I can get to Seoul pretty easy but don't really understand the bus's. I'm good with the subway though lol.
skinsk
10-19-2007, 11:13 PM
I agree that you definitely want to have your personal gear (but even with all the variations on belay devices/ATCs, it's not a bad idea to try some before you buy so you end up with the one you like best.) You should try to make it to the Halloween BBQ next weekend-- a great opportunity to meet folks and socialize. . . and oh yeah, get in some climbing.
John Long's books are excellent for technical knowledge, actual climbing advice, training and humor (these are usually separate books-- but he writes great climbing fiction!) . . . but the Bible has got to be the ever-updated Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills. It explains everything in way more detail than you want or need, but then if someone does something that looks suspicious you can check it out. . .
and man, you'll have your cams a long time-- get the best that you can-- this isn't the thing to watch your money on . . . go without junk food or beer or video games or whatever, but these are your lifeline, your best friends!
Eartaker
10-20-2007, 12:02 AM
that is very true and I might just go with some BD's
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