skinsk
10-07-2007, 05:35 PM
everyone needs 'em-- boulderers, crack-addicts, even plastic-pullers, so i figured we'd start this forum with the all important: shoe.
a girl can never have too many pairs of rock shoes. . . well, even though prices are coming down rapidly, and it's not uncommon to snag a new pair for $50 or less, the sad truth is, it's hard to buy rock shoes because by the time you break them in/know if you like them, it's way too late to return them. rock shoes have come a long way from the days where masochistic climbers believed painful shoes allowed them to feel each nuanced rock feature. likewise, all the major brands have good sticky rubber. my opinion: unless you're really looking to add to your collection with high performance shoes (to give you that extr edge for a 13b!) or specialized shoes (cracks, multipitch. . .) go for comfort-- something you'll wear. that said, it should be snug, no extra room or it'll surely stretch. most people don't wear socks. all of the major brands (and many off-brands) are decent, though I've had cheaper 5.10s come apart pretty early, and boreals that seemed to last forever and overreach what they were intended for! that said, the last few years my money goes to madrock. started as the first economical climbing shoe-- they were not/are not universally accepted, but i've had the flash (orange with funky-heel hooking thingies!) and mugen (ugly name, ugly shoe: red splashes on white and black rubber). . . both edge well, and were super comfortable from the first weekend to more than a year later. . . never getting too sloppy or too stinky . . .
of course, all feet are made differently. climbing shoes especially should be tried on before buying. they will stretch out some to conform to your foot, so trying a friend's won't necessarily be a good indicator. . . nor even is trying it on the in-store bouldering wall. unlined and thin shoes will stretch the most. slightly small shoes can be worn in a warm bath-- just be sure to dry them in the sun and not let them mildew! hope this helps!
a girl can never have too many pairs of rock shoes. . . well, even though prices are coming down rapidly, and it's not uncommon to snag a new pair for $50 or less, the sad truth is, it's hard to buy rock shoes because by the time you break them in/know if you like them, it's way too late to return them. rock shoes have come a long way from the days where masochistic climbers believed painful shoes allowed them to feel each nuanced rock feature. likewise, all the major brands have good sticky rubber. my opinion: unless you're really looking to add to your collection with high performance shoes (to give you that extr edge for a 13b!) or specialized shoes (cracks, multipitch. . .) go for comfort-- something you'll wear. that said, it should be snug, no extra room or it'll surely stretch. most people don't wear socks. all of the major brands (and many off-brands) are decent, though I've had cheaper 5.10s come apart pretty early, and boreals that seemed to last forever and overreach what they were intended for! that said, the last few years my money goes to madrock. started as the first economical climbing shoe-- they were not/are not universally accepted, but i've had the flash (orange with funky-heel hooking thingies!) and mugen (ugly name, ugly shoe: red splashes on white and black rubber). . . both edge well, and were super comfortable from the first weekend to more than a year later. . . never getting too sloppy or too stinky . . .
of course, all feet are made differently. climbing shoes especially should be tried on before buying. they will stretch out some to conform to your foot, so trying a friend's won't necessarily be a good indicator. . . nor even is trying it on the in-store bouldering wall. unlined and thin shoes will stretch the most. slightly small shoes can be worn in a warm bath-- just be sure to dry them in the sun and not let them mildew! hope this helps!