Anchors from home

[skinsk]

Anyone coming from home might bring some chains and connectors for anchors, as well as a big clip. I'd warn against any closed loops for Korea because people aren't used to them and might not climb prepared (to clean them). I think it was Paul? from KOTR who speartheaded (and did much of, himself) the anchor replacement at Kanhyon (and what beauties they are now!).

I know the local/Gwangyang and Yeosu climbers keep up Yongseo (notice how they redid the bathroom? still dodgy but no-longer scary for safety issues). . . but I still remember my first time clipping into one of those anchors (the kind with the triangle of thin wire cord through 2 bolts, clamped shut and backed up?/kept from fraying with duct-tape! then single line of the cord until another trangle clamped shut with an old semi-closing fish hook:eek8: ) I looked down at Rick and I was like, "I'm not sure if I should laugh or cry." And they're still there-- I kinda warn people now so they're not surprized at the top.

Anyway, I still have some chain anchors-- damn it, I left one pair on the 10a way right around the corner at Halmae Bawi!!-- and while I think most things could be purchased in Korea (Jake?!), if you've got the space and weight allowance, consider bringing one or two sets. I know I feel better buying such things in the US).

I'll also take suggestions on where to work on anchors, but Yongseo--so close to me and so fun to climb in Autumn-- seems a sensical place to start!

[climbhigher14k]

If anyone can give info as to where climbing-grade stainless steel chain anchors and hooks can be procured in Korea, I would be extremely interested. I am more than willing to invest time and money to replace anchors in many places.

If anyone can help, please contact me!

[skinsk]

If anyone can help, please contact me!


or better yet, post the beta here!

[shanja]

I'll do a search and start asking around...wow! this is so awesome to see KOTRers taking on this issue. Makes me feel warm and fuzzy, I wanna help too damn it! In fact I'd like to replace some bolts too, but I haven't the experience to do it safely. Anyone out there wanna run a "how to place bolts workshop"? Maybe the chains and anchors could be got from the states via one of those noble and super service-person types via an APO? If that were a goer maybe we could do an anchor/ bolt collection fund thing at the M&G? Imagine if 40 odd KOTRers just kicked in 20,000won each...that's a lot of dosh I think. Maybe a raffle thing where you get a ticket for every 5,000won you donate, at the end of the M&G a lucky winner gets a smicko prize of some sort. A new harness, a cam, a slab of beer whatever!

[mil-mil]

If they are not availible in korea i would be more then willing to have them shipped to my apo aswell as chipping in $ and helping replace worn out old and rusty or in some cases anchors that just werent safe to begin with.

[rosscanup]

I'm in the states currently. I can buy some stuff and bring it back or ship it back to myself. Just tell me what to get and I'll either go to REI in Albuquerque or my local climbing shop here in Las Cruces. Nice climbing here in NM for a change. No lines, nice anchors, realistic grades...but really, Yongseo is a great idea, those anchors are super sketchy!!!

[skinsk]

i'd be down for $30 worth of chains (10" or so) and links to attach them. . .for yongseo:becky: i was inspired. . . if it weren't kinda gross, i'd say the dead snake looked better than some of those things we were clipping into!

[shanja]

Ross mate how do we get cash to you? Like Sonia, I'm in for buying a few new anchor chains and bolts. If REI or whomever there have genuine rock climbing stainless steel (not plated) bolt and hanger sets (Metolius, Fixe etc) for medium hard rock (not granite) I'll kick in $50US or thereabouts for the purchase thereof. The bolts as I understand it should be half inch s/s expansion bolts of not less than 3 inches length.
The following is a guideline of reccommended bolts from Australia 12mm=half inch, 75mm=3inches:
Ramset 12mmx75mm SS Hex-Head Dynabolt DP12075HSS
Powers Flush Head Sleeve 12mm SS FHS1275SS
Powers Power-Bolt Anchor 12mm SS RBHM1370SS
Fixe 12mmx75mm Triplex SS Expansion
Hilti 12mmx102mm SS HSL-G-R
If you can get that sorta bolt with decent hangers I'll be happy to see my cash go to getting them back here. $50 US should get about 6-8 such sets I guess...but I dunno. I won't even insist on where they get placed, public vote on where to replace is fine. Thanks for the offer. Let us know how to pay you.

[lkiehn]

I'll donate to the cause as well (let's say 30,000 won since I don't have any dollars left), but I have no idea what to do with any of it!! It would be cool to learn, though. So if anyone wants to put up the chains/bolts etc, I'll purchase them!

[Tleex]

I'd also be willing to throw in 30,000 won to the cause. Let me know when you guys get something together.

[normalcyispasse]

Count me in for sam-manwon.

[shanja]

OK well folks, I am heading down under in January and back in February 2008, so I found this place selling climbing bolts/ anchors and gear etc in Australia. We haven't heard from Ross in a whiles, so this could be a back-up plan. I could (maybe) get the bolts from Oz and bring 'em back. If you are GENUINELY interested in doing this post here and say how much you'd be willing to contribute. I'd have to ask you to pre-pay before I go, and for you to trust me:eek8: ...sorry but I'm a bit skint (broke).

http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/collections/bolting-gear

The fixe bolts look the goods, and are available in both 70mm and 9mm lengths, and are designed specifically for climbing. OK at $4.70/ $5.65 (AUD not US) each they are a tad pricey (that is 3,832 won and 4,607won respectively), but for 7,600won you can get a 10mmx70mmExpansion bolt and a hanger....have a look and maybe you wanna sponsor a few bolts plus hangers? I dunno. Just throwing it out there guys.

[ricardo]

are we talking bolting new lines, re-bolting, or anchor replacement??
either way i'll pitch in some $$. this may be a stupid question, but can you bolt/rebolt when the rock is cold (or below freezing)? if so it might be fun (in my twisted version of fun) to spend a cold jan/feb weekend in yeongseo fixing anchors and abusing them when the weather gets warmer.

[mil-mil]

i would deffinetly be in for this venture. and would be willing to throw down say 50 usd for it. when would you want/need the moneis by?

does anyone know if the falls at yongseo pokpo freeze enough to climb? and if so what grade they would be?

rick jan feb rebolting and snow camping sounds like a fun idea, we shall talk more about this next i see you.

[Tleex]

I'm still in for 30,000. How should we get the money to you?

[shanja]

Well folks I was just thinking of doing some "essential" safety dicatated rebolting/ bolt replacements (or anchor replacements too). I have very little experience bolting, and I figure we better get someone who does know what they are doing to help us. Rick mate, Yongseo has my vote as a place way worthy of a retro-refit and renovation day. I doubt the falls would freeze enough to ice climb there, but if they did it would likely be quite serious grades...5+ or higher...just because unlike alpine ice, frozen waterfalls are brittle, heavily featured and in Yongseo's case very tall and very vertical. But, I could be wrong too.

[shanja]

Well folks I was just thinking of doing some "essential" safety dicatated rebolting/ bolt replacements (or anchor replacements too). I have very little experience bolting, and I figure we better get someone who does know what they are doing to help us. Rick mate, Yongseo has my vote as a place way worthy of a retro-refit and renovation day. I doubt the falls would freeze enough to ice climb there, but if they did it would likely be quite serious grades...5+ or higher...just because unlike alpine ice, frozen waterfalls are brittle, heavily featured and in Yongseo's case very tall and very vertical. But, I could be wrong too.
Money can be sent to me by phone banking:

Acct Holder: Athol Jake Preston (아톨 제이크 프레스턴)
Acct Number: 312587-02-178865
Post Office Bank (우체국은행)

But don't send anything until a bit later. I need to confirm prices (try get a discout) and availability with the company selling the stuff. Will get that done soon.
Thanks everyone!
Jake

[lkiehn]

Ok Jake sign me up for 40,000 won of whatever you deem worthy.

Rick, Mike, anyone else - I would LOVE to do some snow camping! Just got my new winter bag rated to -5 F and can't wait to try it out!

[shanja]

OK thanks Lindsey, thanks everyone! Here is the letter (e-mail) I sent to Steve at Climbing Anchors Australia, with a proposed purchase order of approx 250,000wons worth of goodies!

Dear Steve and all at Climbing Anchors Australia,
Our rock climbing "club" up here in Korea (www.koreaontherocks.com) is looking to buy some bolts and anchors. The availability of this gear in Korea is a bit erratic and most bolts we find are only 50mm, so whilst I will be back in Oz from Jan 15th-Feb 7th (2008) I thought I might try and pick up the following gear:

6 x Fixe Chain and Ring Anchors (6 x $28AUD = $168AUD)
1 x Ramset R3 SDS Plus Drill Bit 10mm ($25AUD)
12 x Fixe Fixed Hangers 10mm Bolt Hole (12 x $4.70AUD = $56.40AUD)
12 x Fixe 10mm x 70mm Expansion Bolts (12 x $4.70AUD = $56.40AUD)

Total: $305.80AUD

Question is whether you could have all this in stock and waiting for pick-up when I'm in Oz? If so I'll place the order and be super happy to pick up the gear. Oh, would you need an Aussie address or is there a shop-front I could visit to pick it up?

Thanks and best regards,
Jake Preston ("shanja" on Koreaontherocks-KOTR)

[shanja]

Here is the reply (they answered in under 1 hour!!):

Hi Jake,

thanks for the email.

the only hassle might be the r3 drill bit. ive been having trouble sourcing them at a decent price and you might get them cheaper at a bunnings warehouse store which are everywhere?

the rest of ther stuff ive got in stock now so i can put it aside for you if you'd like. freight woudl be $10 on the order anywhere in Aust.

cheers

steve

[shanja]

OK folks here is the latest news on our efforts to get started on replacing dodgey bolts and anchors,
Firstly, and with much thanks to Steve @ Climbing Anchors Australia, this is what he has obtained and "put aside for us" (ie guaranteed available - I just ned pay and pick up when I'm down under):
#1: 24 x 10mm x 70mm Fixe Expansion bolts (12 to be used with #2 below)
#2) 6 x Fixe Chain and Ring Anchors
#3) 12 x Fixe Fixed Hangers 10mm Bolt Hole
Total cost is:
$337 AUD = 275,000won = (9 people kicking in 30,000 won each)

This would let "us" place/ replace 6 anchors and an additional 12 bolts+hangers. Where we do this will depend on the votes cast by those who helped pay, and by permissions from original route makers/ FA's.
Secondly Our ever helpful Korean/ Scotsman at heart, Jo SongKap 조성갑 has already agreed to help locate and contact with the route makers/ FA's or local clubs when we decide which anchors, bolts or crags could do with an upgrade. After speaking with a few other Koreans, it seems this action would be viewed [I]very favourably, provided that we had said permissions and all work was done properly and safely.
Thirdly I know I said we'd be at Gunsan to coillect money and meet you all, but an accident on Friday night (not a hangover!) has put me out of action for a few days...fear not, it was silly and not too serious. I'll be fine by next weekend I reckon. If you are still interested in "kicking in" here is my bank account. If you like, you can transfer money very easily via most Korean ATMs (in English mode) with just my bank account number and bank name (it will appear only in Korean - 우체국). PLEASE NOTIFY ME PUBLICLY HERE WITH WHEN AND HOW MUCH YOU SENT TO ME. KEEP THE RECEIPT TOO!! I'm trying to make this as transparent and safe as possible. Remember I will be leaving on January 14th, so money needs be in by 11th (Friday night).
Acct Holder: Athol Jake Preston (아톨 제이크 프레스턴)
Acct Number: 312587-02-178865
Post Office Bank (우체국은행)
Fourthly If you think (or if we have excess money) the list of gear needs revision please have your say. A petrol powered drill (or battery operated one) would be lovely, but I doubt we'd have the money...
LastlyWho will replace the bolts/ anchors? Well I dunno. One idea is to have a training day organized with a knowledgable Korean bolter, whom we pligh with food and drink and so on (afterwards). Another is to do joint cliff-care days with local clubs. We provide the gear, they provide the muscle and know-how.
That's all, thanks for those who have supported this idea. Climb safe everyone.

[Goulash]

Hey Jake,
I'm going to Mokpo Ironpalms indoor gym today to see if I can talk to the manager there about some routes he's developed around the islands of Jeollanamdo. I might ask him about helping out with this project or seeing if he knows of anyone with the expertise we need for the "muscle" part of replacing bolts.

Also, if ya need any help getting stuff or bringing it back from Oz, let me know and I'll see what I can do to help.

[shanja]

Okey dokes folks. The time is here. KA and I are off down under next Monday, so those who wanna help with the bolt/ anchor replacement fund, PLEASE GET YOUR MONEY TO ME ASAP!
Lindsey has handed over her 40,000won.
KA and I have added another 60,000won,
Who else is in??? For the order we have had "put aside" for us we need 275,000won total. I'll haul it back February 9th. Thanks to everyone for helping out in advance! Send money and public post/ pm/ e-mail/ cell call (010-6488-8733) to:

Acct Holder: Athol Jake Preston (아톨 제이크 프레스턴)
Acct Number: 312587-02-178865
Post Office Bank (우체국은행)

[skinsk]

Via calendars (yours and Jessica's) you should have W30,000 from me!

[shanja]

OK Mike (mil-mil) may have found some Petzl titanium bolt+hanger sets in Dongdaemun. The price (he said about 7,000won a set I think) is as good as Australia, and I don't have to carry 'em back.
BUT:
I can't find any listing or info on the web for Petzl titanium bolts.
All info I can find says titanium is for sea-cliffs only.
Mike wasn't sure of sizes or lengths, so it's hard to compare.

I am still willing to bring the stainless steel 3 inch (75mm) fixe bolts, but if these are of equal or better strength/ longevity etc I'll happily go with them.
Either way we need a decision asap. So please help out by doing some research or at least voicing an opinion ONE WAY OR THE OTHER.
Thanks to Mike and to you all.
Jake

[shanja]

OK so to update, Sonia yes, you have kicked in a de facto 30,000won, and Brandon and Terri also kicked in 45,000won - this takes our total so far, up to 175,000won awesome!

[ricardo]

sorry jake, i've been away from the comp for a while. i'm going to get someone at work to do the transfer ($50) for me since i don't have time to see you before you go.
i don't know about the exclusivity of titanium on sea cliffs but i can offer this bit of recently gained knowledge...titanium is used in thailand because of the "seawater, wind, and a corrosive gas that seeps from the rock". the gas seeping rock being limestone makes me wonder about what's being used at seonunsan and halmei. is there a geologist here to clarify?

[lkiehn]

Maggie has a friend in the states who is a geologist... maybe he would know??

[firepink]

I'm e-mailing him now. I'll let you know what he says.

[firepink]

kurt's answer:

i actually do know something about this. but it's more chemistry than
geology. both rock type and proximity to salt water affect what sort of
bolt should be used. the basic problem is that metals corrode when
they're wet through oxidation (i.e., rusting). and if the water is full
of electrolytes (salts) like ocean water, metals corrode faster via both
oxidation and galvanic corrosion. so anything that is bolted near the
ocean should really be bolted with titanium bolts and hangers.
limestone also should be bolted with titanium or solid stainless steel
hardware because carbonate rocks also contain many salts (not quite
corrosive gases, but that gets the point across with a more ominous
overtone), and when water seeps through cracks in the limestone, these
salts become dissolved, resulting in are high concentrations of
electrolytes in the water. this can lead to galvanic corrosion of
non-stainless steel hardware, and aluminum is also susceptible from what
i hear.

so based on my understanding of all this, titanium should be used near
oceans and on limestone. Ushba makes a titanium single-piece
bolt/hanger that is ideal for such situations. bolts in sandstone and
crystalline rocks don't corrode anywhere nearly as fast unless they're
in perennially wet places on a cliff, but who would bolt such places?
titanium stuff is much more expensive in general, and i don't see a
reason it couldn't be used in granites or sandstones, but i am honestly
not sure on this last part.

also a word of caution...bolts/nuts/hangers on limestone and near the
ocean that appear slightly rusted can be much weaker than they appear
due to corrosion acting in microcracks. this process actually increases
the stress at the fracture tip and causes the fracture to propagate!
there's no way to see this just looking at a hanger, but people have
fallen when just sitting back on bolts that only looked slightly
corroded. some people also use stainless-clad hardware (regular steel
coated with stainless), and the coating is susceptible to cracking, and
then the steel inside is exposed to corrosive action, but you'd never
know just looking at it unless it's so bad that the coating starts to
bubble up. so beware of non-titanium hardware at limestone and coastal
crags!

hope this helps... i should add that i've never seen titanium hardware at any of the limestone crags i've climbed at around the US...

[shanja]

Maggi and Kurt,
Thanks that is awesome and really useful input - just what the rock doctor ordered. I have seen (on the web) the Ushba titanium bolts and also pika mountaineering make some titanium bolts and hangers. I just couldn't find Petzl titanium bolts....but maybe Mike didn't say Petzl (my hearing and brain is shoddy) or maybe they are a new product. I'm surely not against titanium, especially if we can access it for the same price as stainless steel (the fixe bolt and hangers and anchors I am looking at from Oz are SOLID stainless steel, not coated and specifically designed as climbing bolts ; as opposed to most bolts which were actually designed as concrete and building site bolts).
I appreciate the detail and info given by Kurt, and by everyone. Mike, is there any chance you could check on the bolt specs in the next day or so? Diameter, length, material, etc? This would make comparisons even more valid and informative.
I am going to e-mail Steve at climbinganchors australia (who set aside our bolts etc) and keep him up to date on this, and pick his brains on the topic too. Thanks so much to the folks who have already committed and sent money for this project. Rick, Terri, Brandon, Lindsey, Sonia et.al. It has touched a few of the KOrean climbers I talked to and they also wanted to pass along a "well done, thanks, nice one" type of greeting.

[ricardo]

wow, that's more clarification than i expected! makes me think the glue's used on limestone are mainly to seal the bolt from corrosion as opposed to extra anchoring power.
as far as where to mount our efforts, i think we should give extra consideration to the mokpo climbers who have had their pride and joy (halmei) ripped out from under them. (or hopefully this will be a non-issue if the shrew gives up his lame-*** venture)

[skinsk]

well, esp in limestone the epoxy seals the bolt from corrosion and makes the porous rock more solid. . . so kinda 2-in-one. . . thanks Kurt!

Um. . . what's the rock at Yongseo?

[Goulash]

G'day Jake,

Sorry I've been off the KOTR for a while too. I meant to say, put me down for 40 000 as well.

I hope this isn't too late.

I've been talking to some folks around home as well... not climbers, but people who work in mines and use the same sort of equipment with rock and load-bearing properties as well, and they all say the epoxy is the way to go.

You can get little tubes of the stuff that comes in a glass vial (much like a test tube). You drill the hole in the rock, clean it out, put the tube in, put the bolt into your drill and drill the bolt into the hole (using the hammer setting on the drill). This crushes the tube, mixes the components of the epoxy and coats the bolt all in one action. Fast, simple and no mess.

You can buy it at any Miter 10 or Bunnings wearhouse. If you want more info on it let me know and I'll find out some more.

I also checked into two other more common types and they sell from about AUD$30 to $50 per tube.

I'll be in Oz for a few more days. If you wanna call me for more info, my number is: 04 229 223 94

Catch ya later mate.

[shanja]

Stu mate, sorry we missed you in Brissie, but we had a great time up there where they bend the bananas....lovely lovely place, and Kangaroo Point Climbing area, well it makes me wanna live in Brissie! How cool is that place, smack bang in the city centre, real rock, bomber anchors and a river just behind you, a pub and beaches 10 min walk away...too good.
OK I'll put you down for 40,000 and pick up the gear soon. Thanks everyone who helped out. See you lads and lasses soon.
Jake and Kyung Ah

[shanja]

Okey dokes safety minded rock-rats and smelly climber types, the bolts and anchors are bought. Done, paid for and soon to be in Korea. Kyung Ah and I are off for some climbing in the Blue Mountains, weather Gods permitting. We'll see you sweet cats then. Take care, hike the Jiri snow trails, ice climb the Yeong Dong Park, ski the Dragon Valley or Muju and gorge yerselves on the many and various delicious morsels ye can find.

[shanja]

Hey guys the season is really getting on and so now I have a request. Can anyone out there help with contacting the Korean clubs and climbers (Mokpo/ Jeonju/ Gwangju etc) who are "guardians of Yongseo Pokpo Climbing area?
We have all our bolts and 5 new double bolt anchors (with chain). Ready to go...we just need permission and an experienced bolter with drill.
Other areas that need a new bolt are also welcome to our bolts! So maybe Kris and Jess you could see if KOTR couldn't donate the new bolt (fixe 70mmmx10mm with hanger) for Elida? Actually I'd love to see the 1st bolt on Elida repositioned and replaced too, but that's me.
Sorry to name names, but ake it as a compliment of your climbing network skills etc.
Sonia? Seungbin? Sungkab? Kris & Jess? Me? Ricky?

[skinsk]

I do think we should contribute them for rebolting or reanchoring-- that's what I at least wanted to contribute to. Jin Taek will take care of Elida. . . I don't worry about that at all. Let Rich Seoulites pay for that bolt-- for sure enough people will miss it. . .

As I make way South, I'll talk to any clubs I meet. I think a few of us contributed thinking of those scary Yongseo anchors. It might also be worthwhile for someone with better Korean than mine to just go to the club website and post a question or a proposition! Most run on Daum cafe these days. . .I also have 2 sets of chain anchors.

[Goulash]

I'll be heading out of Korea on the 24th, but I'll probably be spending the last few days in Yeosu.

I'm not sure, but I think Seung Bin mentioned that the Yeosu mountaineering club were responsible for some of the stuff at Yeongso (please correct me if I'm wrong).

I was planning on trying to find their club anyway, so if I meet anyone there, I'll find out what I can and pass along the info.

[skinsk]

악동회 Akdong Club developed the vast majority of routes-- but I am not sure where they are from?! Somewhere south! They'll be at Yongseo this weekend! 해정산악회, 전남의대산악회 and 제일대산악회 added a few routes. Development commenced in the early 1990s and continued basically until 1998.

http://www.akdong.net I think they are from Gwangyang.

[Jessica]

Good guess, Sonia - Gwangyang-Eup. The gym is right across from the train station, and they were super-cool folks. I was really sad it took too long to get there from where I lived!

I don't know if this is useful to anyone, but my guess would be that all of the climbers in that general area (at least in Suncheon, probably over to Yeosu) were involved with that club - for people with a vehicle, it wasn't far from any of those locations. I am pretty sure there wasn't a club out of Suncheon (I had a co-teacher check it out for me last year) and I don't think Brandon or Terri were able to find anything closer in Yeosu.

[skinsk]

Thanks Jess! Found it! They're super cool! made contacts! yeah. . . also, they seemed very receptive to the anchor replacement idea. . . esp if we supply the anchors! Might make some of those "first leads" less scary!

[shanja]

OK well it likes like we are ON! The wheels are in motion and the greenlight is err...green. So Here is the e-mail I just got from Greg:

Hi Jake and Sonia, First, Jo Han Ik, the man who set up most of the climbs at Yoengsa,wants me to clearly express his sincere thanks for your offer. He wasreally quite pleased when Hwae San spoke to him yesterday. Han Ikwould like to meet with anyone who wants to be involved at Yoengsa onSunday, May 18th to start the work. He feels a second day - at alater date - will be necessary to do everything though. In the meantime, he's like you to create a list of what you feel needsto be replaced. From what I have seen, the second to last hanger onAkdong should at least be reset, it's on an awkward angle so torquesthe carabiner on falls. The belay cable at the top of Juliet shouldalso be replaced and there is a rather ugly belay atop one of theclimbs on the far right. It currently uses a tree for the anchor andhas no hook for clipping in a rope. Maybe we could set up a realanchor there. Lastly, the second bolt and hanger on Mat-dwaeji arerusty, although they still seem sound. I can relay any messages you need to Han Ik or could get his phone ifyou want to contact him directly.

Now dear friends is the time to step up and volunteer to help out with the rebolting. I'm sure the day would also involve lots of climbing action too...so it's not all work. If you haven't been to Yongseo but want to go/ join, post here or pm me and I can maybe give you a lift down. It's a great crag, and a must visit place.

Thanks and best, Jake and Kyung Ah.

[Jessica]

I'm happy to belay for folks who actually know what they are doing. I don't know much about the actual mechanics of doing the work, but would like to help.

[Shagymb]

I should be in as well. My dad will be here so we might just do a drive by and help for a short time...

[skinsk]

hey. . . I got that same e-mail jake! anyway, i made a reservation for jeju-do before i even visited akdong alpine club with our offer. . . so i'll not be able to attend this weekend-- dang! i sent jake a copy of my unfinished route info. . . anyone else who's going and wants to tick a list. . . let me know and I'll e-mail you a copy!

also, not sure what my W30k is worth, but I nominate two routes on Akdong wall for new anchors: 5. 홍만 5.11b, 13m, 7bolts Beautiful overhanging crack that splits the face. I photographed Kim-lee on this and belayed Miguel. . . both really enjoyed it, at least until the anchor. . . on my turn I refused to unclip the last bolt because looking up at that thing is just too scary. . .
6. 태호 5.10b, 12m, 5 bolts- Colorful, slightly dirty corner crack that was my nemesis-- until I sent it. . . another really classic favorite climb here, that has a dodgy anchor! (oh, maybe someone could bring a broom and clean it too?!).

If someone gets a butterfly or fishing net and cleans the 5 dead frogs and 1 dead snake and 1 old broom from the pools, I will give them W10,000. please take photos and carry the dead things out. . .

Please take lots of great photos-- of the rebolting, the critter-cleaning and of course, the routes and climbers (from above, looking at the route or camera!!)

The good karma to doing all of this is priceless! Y'all'all rock!

[shanja]

Thanks for the route retro-fit suggestions! That is exactly what we need - and people to be in all those climbing pics too! I'm hoping to cruise down Saturday if anyone wants a lift, just ask.