Province Name: Jeollabuk-Do City Name: Jeonju Type of Area: Rock Climbs
As of 05/2010 all of Maisan Provincial Park has been declared by county officials as "off limits" to climbing. Clubs removed anchors and bolts at Opera House and the annex; as of today, gear was still at Albawi. Park officials told us and discussed the closures, noting that Yisan Myo was closed as well ("proximity to temples"). Walking in with gear and helmets obvious tipped us off. The office was prepared with info on other areas you could go climbing near-by.
I'm guessing at the grades, but they were easy. This would be a good place to learn to lead. It's a little runout, but so easy you really don't notice. Same old Maisan conglomerate, but we didn't pull out any holds (some loose pebbles fell and some "holds" seemed suspect and were best left alone. 4 climbs. 2 were more than 30 meters!! I repeat: THE TWO LEFT SIDE CLIMBS WERE OVER 30 METERS LONG. Tie a knot in the end of your 60m rope or use two ropes; don't try them with a 50 meter rope unless you are absolutely certain you want to downclimb! We were able to rap almost to the ground (and downclimb a meter) with a 60 m rope and stretch, but we were not able to lower to the ground!
It's adjacent to Yisan Myo, just outside the "small entrance" to Maisan (but not in the park), across the street from the car parking lot. Hard to miss, as it's right on the road and the bolts are shiny new.
Achors need replacements for old webbing (2nd from left) and there are only the bolts on the 3rd anchor; if you find the 4th, please post info here!
The left 2 routes are OVER 30 METERS, and lowering off the rope could lead to a major accident!! Tie a knot for lowering (and two for rappelling at the end of your rope. We opted to belay from the top, then the first rapped off draws while the 2nd rapped from the leaver. TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!! Be prepared to downclimb the last bit or leave a biner and rap in 2 stages. PLEASE DO NOT BE STUPID AND GET INJURED ON AN AREA I POSTED OR I WILL FEEL GUILTY FOR YOUR STUPIDITY! Have fun and stay safe
As this is conglomerate, (there are some big obvious, but weak-looking and hollow-sounding holds to avoid, in particular those above the seam and above spaces left from previous holds falling), use your judgement. A helmet is a good idea; that said, we didn't pull anything out and the holds we used were solid.
It's a roadside crag right at a pullout. We encountered a policeman (he sat there, lights flashing, as we set up! See photos!) who almost didn't let us climb as it was "dangerous". We managed to convince him-- first with poor Korean and my climbing phrases, then with smiles and finally demonstrations. I guess we convinced him we were OK and he left. He returned later! I looked back to see my belayer talking to the cop and the cop run/jump up to the first bolt and pull on it!
Many cars will use the pullout and stop in the street, mostly to watch, but occassionally giving a shout (of encouragement). While not unique to Korea, be aware.
The belay and climbing are in the sun; water, sunglasses, sunscreen are recommended.
Gear to Bring
We left new cord/webbing on the far left anchor (in the not as safe "death" triangle -- sorry but I was limited in improv gear). I also left an OLD leaver biner good for rapelling down only! Because of the ease of the climbs, it is possible to traverse to the other anchors, but the next person should bring webbing/chains/o-rings, etc. . . the 3rd anchor just had the bolts, and was considerably lower (maybe 20 meters); never found the fourth anchor (but it's easy enough to traverse to the third).
Besides that, a dozen draws and 60 meter rope at minimum, with two ropes optimal.
In the sun, on the road, and a short walk to Maisan National Park for drinks, water, amenities.
The restaurants just past this entrance to the park serve regional specialties that will appeal to vegetarians and carnivores alike. For the former, san-che (mountain vegetable) bi bim bap and do-to-ri mook (acorn jelly not made with animal product) and for the latter, giant slabs of black pork. Together share a bottle or two of the locally produced Makkoli (with a picture of the park on the label)!
Good place for a beginning leader, as the grades were super easy. A decent place to learn basic climbing skills, such as cleaning anchors, belaying a leader. . . Not good if you hate it when people watch you climb.
With only 4 easy routes, it might be good for a real beginner learning to lead. Not far to carry anything!