Province Name: Chungcheongbuk-Do
City Name: Geumsan
Type of Area: Rock Climbs
Ke-reun B Ridge is a climb put up by the Cheongju Climbers back in 1997 I believe. I does have a few belay bolts, but is 90% trad protected, and a really nice line in a quiet country area, between Yeong-dong (영동) and Geumsan (금산) in Yeong-dong County (영동군). The rock is pink-ish granite of sorts, mostly pretty solid, but with sections of loose crumbly stuff and plenty of small pebbles etc on the easier angled parts.
The climb is on Kalki-san (칼기산). From Daejeon or wherever drive along the 35 Expressway, turn off at Geumsan IC and head for Jewon/ Sudu on country road 68. The little villages you pass through have no recognizable name plates so go slow and follow the road along past the river (rafting here in summer) til a big petrol (gas) station on your right where country road 501 splits off. Go right here and about 1 km down you'll see the 관광농원/ Tourist Farm and Rest-stop (Min-bak and restaurant). Pull in here in front of pond etc. Finding the trail in, look carefully and follow the pictures. It's up through a farmers fields on that narrow path RIGHT next to the left edge of the farm buildings...up through the peach orchard etc. The Granpa there was super friendly, climber aware and showed us the hidden trail up. Be courteous, spend some won at his min-bak/ restaurant if you can. Further up the trail, past the cave things get scrabbly and the trail is oft hard to find. Persevere and you should find the 2nd white post splitting Ridge A and B. Follow the signs and look out for the pitch 1 rock (5.6 with a lip and a single bolt to protect the move over the lip). From there follow up pitch 2 where an old faded yellow sling is wrapped around a tree, many yellow hiking team pendants in trees nearby too. Up you go, up that crack/ chimney to the pine tree above.
Big wasp nest on pitch 2 and lots of small loose rock. Helmets are essential on this climb! Mostly good rock and easy moves, but few bolts at all. The chimneys like BIG cams, and it gets not a lot of traffic. The approach and walk out are good, but some loose scree etc, so becareful of ankles. Sandals etc not good for approach.
Gear to Bring
A trad rack with bigger sized cams mostly. 6 draws would be plenty. Helmets for everyone, a few slings and a 60m rope/ 2 people. Some pitches are long, so teams of 3 would be awkward on a single rope, unless the middle person jumared. Careful not to knock down rock/ disturb the wasps!
No water after ou start the hike in, which is not super easy to find. The walk in is not hard, but loose scree at times and the trail overgrown with vines etc (especially after the cave).