Province Name: Jeollabuk-Do
City Name: Jeongeup
Type of Area: Rock Climbs
Sununsan limestone-- slab to face to overhangs. . . just over 100+ routes mostly put in during the early to mid 1990s. All single pitches (I think only 1 or 2 are not) are 25 meters or less. . . 2 require 13 draws, one 12 and the rest fewer. Some are really short, with a good many under 10 meters-- almost boulder problems with a couple of bolts.
When I first got to Korea in 1998 we climbed here a bit. . . but the place has largely fallen out of favor. I had thought it was off limits but recently learned it was not-- just rarely climbed in favor of the more accessible Tugu, Soksal, Mun and **** Rocks. . .
Dosal Am is more of a large area, maze-like in scope, with many "sectors" that range from a few to many routes each. Rock quality varies-- one of the reasons it's not so popular these days: from friable to mossy/dirty to pretty decent. (in at least one case, artificail hold were added where the original popped!) Many routes have fallen to the jungles and the elements. Almost all of the anchors are suspect-- old mildewed rope and webbing. . . several were missing.
In the vicinity of Dosal Am, Yong-mun Cave and the Stone-cut Buddha, the area has an Indiana Jones exploratory feel to it. . . you just don't know what you'll come across.
Sununsan Park is accessed in Asan-Myeon, Gochang-gun. From the main entrance of the park (you can sometimes drive to the Dosal Am parking lot) it's about an hour walk. At the "last restaurant/minbak" past Sununsa (temple) on the way to Soksal and Mun Bawis, take the bridge right and follow the creek upstream (there's a road on one side, rougher hiking path on the other) until you see signs for Dosal Am, Yongmun Cave, etc. the routes are scattered. . . some of the better crags are found near Yongmun cave. . . if you're facing the cave and go all the way right-- there are several clean and interesting routes-- though on the difficult side not counting the shorter 5.9 furthest right (the one bolt anchor gives one pause). . . a few minutes down and right from the cave, up a dry creekbed into a little offshoot valley with rock on either side are 16 7-10 meter routes from 5.9 to 11a. lots of 5.10as and 5.11as.
So if you're feeling adventurous, check it out!
Watch the rock quality. . . many routes and "crags" here were abandoned due to poor rock quality. Lots of runout (esp in cases where a bolt is missing) can compound this problem! many of the routes are overgrown, and there's a lot of broken glass at some of the bases. Bolts (at least at the areas I recommended) looked solid. Anchors are another matter. If you plan to climb here, bring extra slings, rope or cord, a knife and some clips, quick links or leavers. All the anchors I inspected were suspect-- mostly mildewed rope with a rusting (but solid-looking) pigtail. A few were just two bolts. . . one was just one with some contraption hanging off!
Bugs and moss and general dampness as well as sketchy approaches can be problematic. I doubt you'll see other climbers. Noisy hikers, most of whom will be interested in what you are doing, are likely to be around.
A lot of the routes can be accessed from the top-- though the walk around may not be super-obvious. . . you may want to scope before you climb!
Gear to Bring
12 draws and a 50 meter rope will get you up almost anything. 6 draws and 40 meters will get you up about half the routes!!
Dosal Am has some amenities-- water and some vendors selling food. There's also souvenirs. The routes are all withing 10-20 minutes of here, so you're never too far. . . even though it feels like it!