|Comment added by shanja on May 1st, 2009|
The routes here are fantastic! The easier routes are to be found on the right hand-side as you face the behemoth wall and also on the left flank side wall (outside). Many of the routes have grades taped under them, and most are colour coded. The right side of the cave (from R-L):
Peachy Keen - 5.9/10a
Rainbow Parade - 5.8/9 (no set course)
Rose Red - 5.10c
Old Yellow - 5.9
Violet Blue -5.10b
Rusty Red/Brown - 5.10d/11a
Then in the cave itself at the middle of the back is a Black&White route that shoots up the super overhung back wall and out through the roof till the lip...I dunno if it has a name, but it is about 5.10d/11a also and a tonne of fun - very juggy.
At the back left corner of the cave is another Black and White holded route that is called 똥덩어리 (Pile of Poo) - crazy route and likewise fun, has some big dynamic moves and gets you up to the roof for some potantial wild air-time.
As yet, the wall is only open till 6pm, because they don't have a qualified safety officer to be there later (문승범 [shorter stocky smiling guy] & 이형찬 [thinner glasses wearing smiling guy] who are always there doing that job, have to leave and have a seperate life at some point. If you go, say thanks to these guys, because they made the routes and keep it open 10am-6pm.
Oh and finally, there are now great eco-friendly toilets and drinking fountains just next to the wall. No need to trek back to the Daejeon Citizens Soccer Team Store by the car-park entrance for water/ ablutions.
Anchors are all pigs-tail type twisted steel loops and very easy to clip (except that all anchors are way overhung!). If you are TR-ing a route PLEASE LEAVE THE LAST QUICKDRAW CLIPPED TO THE ROPE this is for back-up/ redundancy, and check the quickdraws that live on the routes - the often spin a bit and the biners may get cross-loaded if you don't straighten them out as you go up.
The wall is closed on Mondays, Buddhas Birthday and Christmas.
|Comment added by shanja on March 7th, 2010|
As from April 2010, the wall will be open til 10pm on Tuesday and Thursday nights. As 문승범 said, just in time for the mosquito fest! All new routes are made on the wall every 4 months, the next scheduled change coming in May 2010 I believe. Also there will be FREE "sports climbing" classes being run at the wall, FOR ALL ABILITY LEVELS from April (I think). I'll attach the Korean and English schedules soon.
New small back bouldering wall that is in the sun, great fun and usually empty too. Walk round behind the main walls on the left side (as facing).
Reminder to please take away all rubbish (no bins) and that there is no cooking allowed within the walls fenced perimeter. The lads can order Chinese take away for you though, if you ask.
|Comment added by shanja on June 23rd, 2010|
|The Tues/ Thursday night climbing sessions are great! The mosquitoes still few, and the new (post comp) routes are interesting too. Hopefully we'll even have a layback style route in the near future. Also please eat any food other than snacks at the funky new wooden shelter thing by the office, the delivery guy drops off and picks up food to there as well.|
|Comment added by ntong10 on October 11th, 2010|
|I'm planning to go to Daejeon this weekend, Oct 15-17, and I want to check out this wall and get my climb on. Problem is, I left all my climbing equipment back in the states. Is there renting here? and if not, are there any shops nearby where I can pick up a few things? Thanks!|
|Comment added by Keyvan on October 9th, 2017|
|Visited this wall two times in 2017. It is great and most of the people speak English.|