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Jeonju Climbing Center
Submitted on March 8th, 2006 by skinsk Type: Gyms    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   

Small, unassuming and tucked away, this gym is very basic-- the standard one story bouldering with a few holds on the ceiling.

전주클라이밍 센타 is home to 2 of Korea's top 10 ice climbers, however, and there are dry hooking routes!

Minimal English, but friendly climbers (김덕중, 최정길, 조덕규) who will work with very poor Korean. No landline phone or website. W30,000 a month. The gym is open primarily M-F 7-9... [Read More]

Jeonju University Climbing Wall
Submitted on January 22nd, 2007 by skinsk Type: Artificial Walls    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   
 photo 8 meters X 10 meters, but with various angles and route options. There are bolts every meter and several anchor options at the top. A 30 meter rope and 8 draws max are needed if you want to clip every meter.

It's brand new by Discovery Wall, 2007.... [Read More]

Kim's Climbing School
Submitted on June 1st, 2005 by skinsk Type: Gyms    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   

This isn't Seoul but taking advantage of limited space there are Bouldering options for every level and a few leading and ceiling routes. The gym is an A-frame structure on stilts with a loft in the center (roof problems available) and longer routes on either side.

Mr. Kim is very animated and speaks no English. You can climb as you like or let him train you! A few students and one older patron speak English. Otherwise, the climbers are friendly and range from beginner to competitve, but not elite. It's open M-F... [Read More]

Submitted on April 18th, 2004 by Eric Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   
 photo Conglomerate is the only way to describe this face. Mostly baseball size stones to microwave size stones stuck together by some glue. Most of the climbs are super juggy, similar to large holds you might find on a beginner wall at a climbing gym. A few of the harder routes have the big holds but they are sloppy and smooth. The bolts look good but a few of the anchors could be replaced. A 60 meter rope is recommended but not completely necessary. At least a dozen quickdraws. The climbs are really well protected and I don't think it would be... [Read More]

Maisan / Yisan Myo
Submitted on June 4th, 2005 by skinsk Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   
 photo As of 05/2010 all of Maisan Provincial Park has been declared by county officials as "off limits" to climbing. Clubs removed anchors and bolts at Opera House and the annex; as of today, gear was still at Albawi. Park officials told us and discussed the closures, noting that Yisan Myo was closed as well ("proximity to temples"). Walking in with gear and helmets obvious tipped us off. The office was prepared with info on other areas you could go climbing near-by.

I'm guessing at the grades, but they were easy. This would be a good pl... [Read More]

Mangjubong (Seonyu Island)
Submitted on December 8th, 2006 by skinsk Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Gunsan   
 photo Seonyu-do is an island 50 km from Gunsan, located at the center of the 20 islands of the Gogunsan Archipelago. Mangjubong is the prominent rock-mountain that juts out at the end of the main beach. It's made of granite of varying quality (some of it quite friable).

Of all the rock on the island(s), the only bolts we saw were these 2 routes on Mangjubong, which a couple of KOTRers had found previously.

UPDATE: I discovered these were put in quite a while ago (maybe 80s? but definitely at least 90s) by the Jeonju Climbing Center. . . an 11b ... [Read More]

Mun Bawi
Submitted on April 26th, 2004 by CHOI BAWI Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeongeup   
 photo Mun Bawi is a sharp limestone face with plenty of small "pockety" holds; and although the face is contaminated with moss, it doesn't appear to be a very big deal. There is a single 5.11b layaway crack. There are no dramatic overhangs to speak of. All fifteen routes are very well-bolted climbs.... [Read More]

New Millenium (새 천년)
Submitted on October 21st, 2007 by skinsk Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   
 photo New Millenium is a 5 pitch trad route up one of the more beautiful ridges in Daedunsan Provincial Park. The first 3 pitches are less than vertical, with face and crack sections, and it finishes with 2 short slabby (though interesting) climbs. It's a route that's just challenging and thoughtful enough for experienced leaders and relative beginners to enjoy.

P1 40 meters 5.9 four bolts/additional gear possible. Mostly slabby. 15 meter rappel off the back to the next pitch. Good views of Sinseon Bawi to your left

P2 40 meters 80-90degrees ... [Read More]

Opera House
Submitted on June 19th, 2006 by skinsk Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jinan   
 photo As of May 1 2010, Opera House was closed by the park officials. Hopefully, this is not permanent, but the local climbing clubs have removed most of their gear.

SEVERELY overhanging "Maisan" conglomerate. I've climbed there in the rain and it's quite dry! Looks like pebbles to boulders cemented together with numerous pockets, edges, etc.

Largely the domain of Jeonju Climbing Center and Sunwoon Climbers (of Gunsan), this overhanging "ampitheater" was spotted 7 years ago, but development really happened in 2006 and it now sports about 12... [Read More]

Sangsa Bawi (Halmae Bawi)
Submitted on April 20th, 2006 by skinsk Type: Rock Climbs    Province: Jeollabuk-Do    City: Jeonju   
 photo Crumbly version of the local limestone, but slabby-vertical (the summit domes). Several bolted routes (2 pitches and a scramble-- roped-- to the summit). It's in the middle-of-farmland nowhere, but the small town life and quaint villages and farms definitely make this place worth checking out for lunch and for a drive, but not for the climbing!!

Couldn't see the anchors, but the rock was uninspiring. The routes are the main (L of the roof) face you see from the road. Don't know the grades (very broad guess).... [Read More]

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