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Baekseok Am Jang
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Slab, vertical, and overhanging (limestone). . . a beautiful, quiet crag along the Dalcheoncheon (river), near the West entrance of Sognisan National Park.
Facing the crag, L-R: 2 well-hidden slab routes on a mossy low angle slab, 5.8s. The next clusters are labled in Korean by name, but not grade: 12b, 11c, 11b, 11c/d, 12a, ?. A bit further right, a cluster of 4 more routes: 10a (series of small roofs), 5.9, and 2 runout 5.8 slabs.... [Read More]
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Bongsan X-Games Park
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4 meters high and 20 meters long, there are no marked routes. This wall is part of a neighborhood park that includes skateboarding ramps. While technically in Osong in Chungbuk, it's just minutes walking from Chungnam. I rode my bike here from Jochiwon. Routes are limited by you imagination and skill. Most of the holds are pretty solid, with a few spinners (so next time I'll bring a wrench).... [Read More]
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Cheong Seok Gul
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Cheong Seok Gul is a small roadside crag. There are about 10 climbs on this sedimentary face. Most of the climbs are about 15 meters long. Almost all the climbs start on some degree of overhang. The anchors seem pretty good though a few of the bolts near the bottom of the climbs are bad. There is at least one anchor about 60 meters high, though I didn't climb the long pitch(s) to get there.
The easiest climb here is a 5.10c. After that there is a 5.10d, some 5.11a's and b's and then on to some harder 5.11's and a few 5.12's thrown in f... [Read More]
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Cheongsonyeon Cheyuk Kwan (Gym)
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This is a SWEET gym, with 2 bouldering areas and a lead climbing area (10 meters).
The manager, Lee Seok Hee, is very friendly and has climbed some in Yosemite. He speaks SOME English.
The only drawback to this gym is that it is rarely open. It is open Monday-Thursday, from 7 pm until 10 pm. It is possible that it will be open on the weekends during the winter, but calling Mr. Lee is the only way to be sure.
As for price- not quite sure, but it can't be much as it seems to be sponsored by the city of Chungju... [Read More]
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Haksodae/Hwayang Valley
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Four sketchy routes put up in 1980 on the left wall of this "named" rock, one of the 8 scenic sights of Hwayang Valley. The middle routes are 10a, and on either side is a 5.9; all are 15 meters. 2 bolts/fixed gear (one on the far right 9) supplement the trad gear needed to protect the cracks. Vertical rock with some vertical and horizontal cracks, etc. . . very rainy when I was in the valley, so I didn't get too close or too good pictures
Nearby (in particular when you cross the 2nd bridge) and scattered throughout the valley are numerous ... [Read More]
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Jaksungsan: Bae Bawi
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This is a granite, multi-pitch aid/sport/trad area, located in a beautiful, pristine (ok, so we are in Korea) location. The climbing is very slabby and somewhat runout, but there are also some nice cracks. I have yet to fully explore the area, but there are aprox. 10 multipitch routes, up to 162 meters in length. I went on a Sunday and saw no-one. All the routes appear to have been re-bolted recently, but the anchors are typical Korean anchors (clamped wire with large hooks). The rock is very textured and solid.... [Read More]
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Ke-reun B Ridge/ 케른B 릿지
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Got Photos?
Add photos of Ke-reun B Ridge/ 케른B 릿지
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Ke-reun B Ridge is a climb put up by the Cheongju Climbers back in 1997 I believe. I does have a few belay bolts, but is 90% trad protected, and a really nice line in a quiet country area, between Yeong-dong (영동) and Geumsan (금산) in Yeong-dong County (영동군). The rock is pink-ish granite of sorts, mostly pretty solid, but with sections of loose crumbly stuff and plenty of small pebbles etc on the easier angled parts.... [Read More]
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Seteo Ambyeok Jang
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This is a fairly new area about 20 minutes south of Chungju. All of the climbing here seems to be slab. The anchors looked new but typically Korean. The bolts looked pretty good.
It is a small area and hosts about 15 routes, some are 2 pitches.
Don't come if you don't like slab, and don't come too far. If you live in the vicinity, come check it out.... [Read More]
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