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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Saeinbong Submitted on October 28th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollanam-Do City: Gwangju
Park: Mudeungsan Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.13 Style: Sport
Views: 4971 Photos: 13 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 3 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Saeinbong, easily accessed from the Jeungshimsa entrance of Mudeungsan Provincial Park on the western edge of Gwangju, boasts two main climbing cliffs. Facing Yaksasa (temple)is Yaksa Amjang, and on the opposite side of the peak is the main wall referred to as Saeinbong.

To lead at Saeinbong, you must first rappel from the top-- there is a sturdy rap ring on the left (facing out), but the routes here are 40 meters and YOU WILL NEED 2 ROPES or to fix a single line!!--and walk along the path below (you could rap from any anchor at the top, but all will require an 80 meter rope or two ropes or a single fixed line! Yaksa Amjang features easier routes from the top, looking out L-R, 10b, 10b, 10b, 8 (unbolted crack), 7(unbolted crack), 10, 9(unbolted crack) with 11d headwall finish. The bolts on the 11d look great, some of the cracks have old pitons (as do some faces), but the majority of bolts, put in in 1995, are very corroded. Some are missing hangers, some are missing heads!! I've included photos of some of the anchors. Bring gear (really, some very long slings or cord to sling trees, boulders, etc would work) to back-up anchors. The chossy sedimentary rock with many loose holds, flakes, etc is probably better toproped. Leaders should treat everything as suspect, and might want to look at the top first!! At Saeinbong, you'll need to make your anchors for most rocks. The Gwangju climbers often set a single line and self belay up. With one rope the 2nd can be belayed from the top, or to TR take turns lowering each other and climbing out. Saeinbong is somewhat chossy and has some loose holds, though the long exposed routes are compelling, and worth checking out.

From the top, facing out, L-R 10c (shares start with) 10a, 11c, 10c, 11c shares anchor with 11a-- these two do not go to the top and can only be accessed from the ground, as they are only 18 meters-- 10b, ?, 9 and 9 share the same start and split up midway, one following the crack up and one more on the face at the top, 13a, 13a, 12a. The bolts here looked more solid and new, and there were occasional pitons to clip. Gear would be needed to climb the cracks on both sides, or even to provide extra protection for the sport routes. From very thin cracks to more-than-fists, aliens to a #4 cam could be useful, and that just on the routes we tried!


Directions
From Gwangju, busses 15, 23, 27, 52, 555 and 771 go to Jeungshimsa (Temple), It's about 2.5k (an hour) to Saeinbong, following the trail just behind the parking lot, or the more scenic route past Yaksasa, a small temple with an original stone pagoda and stone Buddha. You can see Yaksa Amjang from Yaksasa. The base of Yaksa Amjang can be accessed from an overgrown trail just below the main summit. Both crags can be accessed from the top.


Safety Concerns
Yaksa Amjang's bolts look dubious, including two anchors that are missing hangers. There is loose rock, including holds and flakes on the routes. Both crags see many picnickers on top, and many non-climbers were drinking! Judging from the base, it's possible to be hit by flying debris; a few kids were tossing off rocks. Helmets for the base are a good idea, and even many Korean climbers had them. Setting up your base on top will be more convenient, and it will alert folks to the fact that you are there!

The rap ring at the top of Saeinbong is super sturdy, and there are many shiny new bolts on the main face, along with some old (and the ones I came across, solid) fixed pins.


Gear to Bring
Routes on Yaksa Amjang reach 17 meters; at the main crag they are 40!! You can climb everything with a single 50 meter rope, but you'll need to lower or single rope rappel from a fixed line. Be safe; tie in on both ends or tie knots in the end of your rope. To lead, a rope and a dozen draws will get you through the faces, pro as noted can be used for the cracks (there are fingers to offwidth in areas). You should bring long slings or cord to anchor to trees, boulders on top.


Additional Comments
Around the bus stop and pretty much all the way to Yaksasa are the usual restaurants, stores, etc. After that, there's nothing and it's a stiff hike, so bring what you'll need from the day. Yaksasa is in the shade, Saeinbong in the sun. Despite the bad bolts on the Yaksa side, and often chossy sections of rock, the beautiful views, friendly climbers and opportunities for top-roping, not to mention the easy access from Gwangju, still make Saeinbong worthwhile. On the other side of the park, I've heard good things about Seonbi Bawi, but a car would seriously improve access.



Comment added by CharlesCullen23 on October 26th, 2009
Silly, stupid, and seriously dangerous runout here on the sport routes. Unless you have trad gear, I highly suggest toproping, some routes have 20-25 feet of runout between bolts/rusty pitons. Stunning views and cool climbing though.



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